Exploring The Shipwreck Of My Lady Lata II

Swimming above and around the rusted hull of My Lady Lata II, and it's rusting companion off Pangaimotu Island off Nuku'alofa in Tonga was like something straight out of the footage of the Titanic - on a much smaller, and up close scale, of course!

I went along with a couple of lads from Fafa Island Resort, and battled through my non-swimmer status to be able to float around the impressive half-submerged ships.

There are two of them, but My Lady Lata II is the most well-known, stuck indefinitely just off the edge of Pangamotu, which makes for interesting viewing from the basic visitors resort and restaurant on the shore. My Lady Lata II was caught up in a cyclone some 12 years ago, and there she has stayed, half exposed to the air. The second ship that you can see, just next to the upended Lady, ran into mechanical trouble, and there it remains some 7 years later.

Having the railings of the deck of either vessel appear in my snorkelling goggles was well worth battling my fear of drowning, and swimming in the depth of the ocean.  Rusted, but still essentially intact, the light from the sun shining down gleams through the windows and doorways, in an eerie way. Even from the surface, I could see the details of the stairways and ladders, and also the new life forms of fish and the like in and around both hulls.

There is a strange beauty in seeing a man-made object abandoned like this, with nature continuing around it, and making it home.


Jouljet Notes
Serious Tip: I went across with staff from Fafa Island Resort, who were on a day off - however you can get across to Pangamotu via a daily boat in the morning, returning in the afternoon, from Nuku'alofa wharf. Many daytrippers do this each day, but especially on Sunday, when then rest of Tonga closes down for church.
Time Spent: We went across the Pangamotu from Fafa for a couple of hours to include lunch, but our swim was probably about half an hour to 45 minutes, being as long as we could stand the idea of the itchy little jellyfish like organisms in the water all around us near the ships.
Cost: A day trip across to Pangamotu from Nuku'alofa is $20.
Quirky Tip: A better swimmer than me could get closer, and swim in and around the cabin of the ship, which looked pretty amazing!

Hibiscus Of Fafa

Throughout the tiny island of Fafa, two different colours of hibiscus floated down from the trees dotted around, and appeared in my path across my week there.

On both sides of the island on the beach, and also dotted along the path through the centre of the island, which was dense in parts with rainforest foliage.

These flowers often lined my path back to my fale from the restaurant or shared facilities, or lay around my private accommodation area, below the hammock and around the banana lounges.

A reminder of how tropical the island was, these flowers added to the overall special feel to the island getaway in Tonga - peaceful, pretty, and perfect!

The Mapu'a'aVaca Blowholes - A Stunning Ocean-Crashing Phenomenon

Waves crashing into the shore, and seconds later spraying up into fountains, for as far as the eye can see. These are the blowholes on the north-western edge of Tonga's Tongatapu island, and definitely worth a look. Stunning and surprising, there is such beauty in the way that the ocean and coral formations play together, at every wave.

Part of my day trip around the main island of Tonga took in this sight, and with no or low expectations of the sight from the guidebook, I was captivated by this wondrous natural sight.

Running for at least 5kms along the coast, there is a viewing platform, but our guide had our small group stand along from that, to get closer to the water. From here we could see the rock shelves and little pools between the waves. The colours, and depths were beautiful, and then a wave would come in, and seem to explode with water up into the air!

We had a child in our group, and he was at first interested, and then scared at the unpredictability of the water fountains - they varied so much in height and volume. The rest of us, however, were fascinated, and could have watched for hours.

Jouljet Notes
Serious Tip: Get down and close to the rock edge, to see the full coast of blowholes, for the full effect.
Time Spent: It was about a 45 minute drive from Nuku'Alofa, through villages, to get there. We stayed for about 30 minutes, but definitely could have stayed longer.
Cost: Part of my day tour from Fafa Island, so difficult to pin point how much this was for me. But I am sure you can negotiate a driver/taxi from town, to bring you out to see these.
Quirky Tip: Going along to see these with such low expectations made this natural phenomenon even more magical, because I had no idea what we were seeing and why! That's what makes travelling so amazing!

Churches Of Nuku’Alofa

Tonga is one of those places with a church on every other corner.

On my first wander around Nuku'alofa, I discovered many of them around town, and stopped to take them in. All so diverse, and yet all a form of deep Christianity that runs through the Tongan way of life with such strength. 

Reading up on my visit to Tonga, one of the most recommended things to do was to attend a church service on a Sunday. As it happened, the week I was in the country was the week of the funeral of one of the King's cousins, as my plane-mates informed me on the flight over.

A day trip arranged by my Resort, myself and a family who was also staying on the island, were taken to the Centennial Church in Nuku'Alofa. As I arrived back on the main island of Tonga from Fafa, I could hear the bells of the many churches ringing out across the small capital, signalling Mass would commence shortly.

This is the church that the royal family attends in town, and the expectation was that the King and Queen would attend. Not the most architecturally impressive church, like the one pictured above which is the Free Church of Tonga, the Centennial was open doors all the way along, and perhaps the biggest in town.

Being a week of mourning, many locals who were connected in some way wore black within their traditional Sunday best. This combination of white or black, and the grass thatched wrap, made for a beautiful sight within the congregation.

As more and more people poured into the church and filled the rows, the choir dressed in white gathered in the front and centre section. Being a few of the only foreign intruders at church, we sat to the side of the proceedings, but ensured we had a good view.

Suddenly we noticed that the Royal section was filled with both the King and his wife, ready for the Sunday service. They had arrived without ceremony, just as everyday members of the congregation.

And then the service began, and the singing filled the huge white room.

The service, of course, was all in Tongan, however the incredible singing did not have to be in any particular language to be amazing. The room of harmonising voices soared as each hymn was sung, by the whole room.

As with any Christian service I have ever attended, we followed along with the examples around us about when to stand and when to sit.

The choir of the youth of Nuku'Alofa had such beautiful singing voices, and made the service a memorable experience. One of those travel moments when you can't quite believe you have been fortunate to be included in something so local and real, and so special.

After church you could witness what the term "community" is all about, as with any church service around the world, with people catching up, chatting, and meeting with the elders within their congregation. Such a beautiful experience.

Jouljet Notes
Serious Tip: Our tour got us there early enough to watch people arriving, as well as being present for the service. Locals were friendly, and more than happy to engage with us as foreign intruders.
Cost: Church was free, but a contribution to the collection tray when it comes around is a nice way to give back for the experience
Time Spent: Sunday service was about an hour in length
Quirky Tip: People watching is the best here, watching as people within the community and extended family catch up at their weekly ritual. But also the fashion is so interesting! Watching the kids play outside during the service is also worth the distraction!

Fafa Island Paradise

I found an island paradise when I was in Tonga, and it's too good to keep a secret!

Just the week before I traveled to this nation of islands, I had helped a client of mine look up the word paradise in the Arabic-English dictionary, after someone had used it sarcastically – little did I know that my following destination could very well have fulfilled the definition perfectly. Fafa Island is just a 30 minute boat ride from Nuku’Alofa on the main island of Tonga, and a world away from everything. A tropical oasis in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

When I arrived on the tiny island, my bags were taken to my fale, as I was introduced to the friendly Resort staff, and then the features of the traditional Tongan wooden hut that was to be all mine for the week. The king bed was clad with a mosquito net, and so comfortable. The bathroom was an enclosed open-air space to the back of the fale, and showering was like you were out in the jungle.

The staff took time to learn my name, greeted me each time they saw me around the island, and checked in to see if there was anything I needed. Being the last guest to arrive at dinner one night, one of the restaurant staff had said that they were just about to come and check in with me when I arrived, to ensure I didn't miss the kitchen hours - now that's service!

The island is environmentally conscious, with rainwater and solar panels keeping the amenities running. Everything was clean and simple, keeping the island as pristine and natural as possible.

A massage therapist is on site most days, based on bookings made the previous evening, and I took advantage of her services at the beginning of my week to ensure the worries of the world were completely gone. Day trips were also on offer, back to the main island and also to an adjacent one for snorkelling and swimming.

Each fale was enclosed from the other, so you truly felt like you were away from the world. A path down from the door to the water’s edge was provided, along with a hammock and pairs of deck chairs both in front of the fale and out at the sand and ocean.

Walking through the bushtrail in the middle of the island, I discovered rainforest-like coverage, and little entrances to the beach on the other side of the island. Tropical plants and flowers dotted the way, as did bird calls and fallen coconuts. The occasional spider web across the path told me how much I had this space to myself.

The morning light and the birdcalls were the only thing to wake me, and then each morning I found that a jug of hot water had been delivered to the table in front of my fale, for coffee. The oil lantern was also returned to the table just as darkness was falling, to light my return back from dinner at the restaurant not far along the beach.

The only thing to worry about each day was when meals were served in the restaurant. The decking overlooked the ocean, and at night oil lanterns lit the edges. A changing menu each day, the local starter was always a treat – banana wrapped in bacon was a winner! – before a three course meal was on offer. Once per week there is a Tongan cultural night, where a full BBQ buffet is on offer, as well as local dances put on my the staff, showcasing the different traditions of many of the islands around Fafa.

Originally, I had booked for a few nights, with a vague idea of researching the notion of exploring some of the other Tongan islands further afield. But once I had found this paradise, there was no need, nor desire, to leave! A week of walking around barefoot, spending time lazing in the hammock, lazy swims at high tide, snorkelling above the fish life and coral so close to the island edge, and taking a walk through the middle, or around the perimeter of the island most days – a much needed rest!

Jouljet Notes:
Serious Tip: The staff are amazing, and nothing is a hassle to them to help you enjoy your stay. Transfers to the island from the main island will be arranged around your needs.

Time Spent: One week. It is a half hour journey by boat from Nuku'alofa to Fafa, and the Resort will arrange this.

Cost: My fale was $259 per night, which is well over and above my usual style and budget for travel. But was worth it!
Quirky Tip: Watch out for the little treehouse in the middle of the island (I don't think you can get up to it, mainly because it doesn't look like it would hold anyone anymore), and the swing in the middle of the rainforested area.

Nuku'alofa Market Stacks

The sights of vegetable wares in Tonga were colourful and perfectly portioned, ready for purchase. As I walked along the main road beside the harbour from the outskirts of Nuku'alofa into town, I passed a long row of little stalls set up, displaying their goods.

They were presented on tables and permanent stalls in little purchase-size stacks. From tomatoes, big and small, to baskets of taro, bundles of corn, and neatly aligned carrots.

Yer man here has neatly tied up, even bundles of fish, presumably caught that morning. Ever vigilant with that stick, to keep the flies away!

The scenes at Talamahu Market, right in the heart of town, looked so ordered and uniform. Little piles of each vegetable, carefully lined up and awaiting to be claimed.

Missing the usual chaos of a main food hub anywhere else in the world, the Market was quiet and calm, regardless of the steady flow of people in and out, completing their weekly shop.

One of the main attractions on Tongatapu, the Market also has sections of handmade gifts and jewelry, among the smells of fresh seafood and meats, clothing and everyday basic needs upstairs, as well as a kooky selection of touristy souvenirs.

Tonga's Abode Of Love

Looking for a place to go during a respite break in May, I recalled a long ago notion of wanting to visit Tonga, and experience the remoteness and culture that the cluster of islands that make up the Kingdom has to offer.

Just a 4 hour and 40 minute flight from Sydney, I arrived in the middle of the night into this Pacific Island gem with no concept of where I was. An airport transfer took me to the guesthouse I had booked for this arrival time, and when I eventually got to the other side of the island and Nuku'alofa, I was so grateful for the bed and the ability to get some sleep. I could have been anywhere!

The morning greeted me with seaside views, the lapping tide and a view of a rusted, ship hull in the harbour. After breakfast with my guesthouse family, I set out on foot to get a feel for the city I had reached in the dead of night.

I wandered past the harbour, past the market stalls of vegetables on sale and tiny BBQs cooking corn or chickens all along the main road, and took in the smells and sights of this new country to me. People were friendly, and curious about this traveler on her own, wandering about on foot.

Nuku'alofa is the capital of Tonga, and located on Tongatapu island - one of 171 islands in the Kingdom. Nuku'alofa means "Abode Of Love", and with it's small village feel, simple ways of living, and a church on every corner, it was hard not to get caught up in the happy-go-lucky feeling of the place.

Into town itself, I took in the sights of the main street and the quite stores. I walked through the Talamahu Market, before making sure I saw the handful of notable churches, all in close proximity.

At the top of the arc I was walking through the main streets of town was the site of the Royal Tombs, which are not open to the public, but through the fence into the vast park you could spot the statues marking the final resting place of Tongan Royalty since 1893 - starting with King George Tupou I, and including the late King George Tupou V, buried in 2012.

Just a little further along my walk, and back towards the sea, I found the Royal Palace, easily the most well kept building on the whole island. Set within lush green, and heavily manicured gardens, the simple Victorian style is now five times the size of it's original structure, but this royal residence is still the centre piece.

The place of governance and the home of the Kingdom's archives and history, this is the primary landmark of Nuku'alofa.

The weather was glorious, warm and noticeable fresh, clean air - the perfect way to soak in the sights of this remote, simple capital of the Tonga Kingdom.



Jouljet Notes
Getting There: Flight was from Sydney, Virgin fly on a weekly basis
Serious Tip: Have a local tell you about the Royal Tombs, as there are several stories worth hearing
Cost: Flight from Sydney was around $600 each way, night one guesthouse was around $60 and the middle of the night transfer was $20. Walking around town was free, and a local cab back to my guesthouse when I was done was $5
Time Spent: About 2 hours in total, round trip from my guesthouse on the outskirts of town, just wandering around on foot
Quirky Tip: Sitting in the little park areas in town and people watching was actually my highlight of this wander into town - the way to see the goings on of every day life in a place!

Pacific Island Tranquility

Walking to the other side of the tiny island of Fafa, the secluded beach faces out into the ocean, with very little humanity to be seen towards the horizon. Such peace and beauty.

Seating On An Island Paradise

This is the deck on Fafa Island, looking out to the ocean. The staff come to you, to bring you food and drinks. Such peace and beauty! It's amazing to me that this place is not better known!

Approaching Fafa - My Tropical Island Getaway

 

There it is! The little island, just off the main island of Tonga, where I stayed for a week. I planned to stay a few nights and maybe explore some other 174 islands that make up this Pacific Island nation.

 

But once I got there, I didn't want to leave!

 

On the boat over, which was just over an hour, this was my first glimpse of it, finally figuring out which of the dots on the horizon it was. Moody weather that day made for gorgeous views!

Introducing A Jouljet Travel Photo Series

From the Pacific Islands to Eastern Europe, I have managed to complete some pretty cool travel in the middle portion of this year. I want to start sharing my photos with you from these travels...the little moments that have caught my eye and my heart...on a weekly basis.

Truth is, it's hard to keep a regular post schedule going with my FIFO work habits. I cringe when my blog is idle and looks neglected. And I am pretty happy with a whole bunch of photos that I have captured, and shared on Instagram, and am really keen to share them here on the blog. I want to show you some of the amazing places I have seen!

As you can maybe spot here in this collage, I have managed to get to Tonga and the Solomon Islands between work rotations, which were easy enough in my respite weeks, and a reasonable flight time from the East Coast of Australia.  Then I travelled to Eastern Europe for a month of Summer, which added Greece, and the Balkans to my country list - Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Serbia.

I want to show you the views I have been lucky to capture on my travels. I hope you'll enjoy!