Election Day In Australia - Do We Even Realise How Lucky We Are?

I woke up this morning to an article about the issues about the July election held in Cambodia and tweets about the peaceful protest gathering in Phnom Penh about their election.  A stark reminder how very lucky we are here in Australia to have the freedom to attend our polling booth today, and freely and safely lodge our own vote for the outcome of a parliamentary election.

I was going to complete my vote at an early polling booth near work during the week, until I stumbled upon the website which mapped out the election sausage sizzle locations, and found that the primary school near where I am housesitting was a one of the ones where I could get a snag after completing my two ballot papers.

Because not only are we free to vote as we decide, we Aussies make the best of our compulsory democratic duty by having a BBQ, and schools get the chance to fund raise through stalls.

As I walked down, I felt such a sense of community. Here I was, walking along ahead and behind other groups doing the same - families, housemates, singles - about to participate in our democratic right, and have a say in the leadership of our great and lucky country.

An opportune house just near the school was holding a garage sale. The line to vote was massive when I finally made it through the gauntlet of aggressive pamphlet holders, hoping that somehow forcing into my hands a flyer for their party would influence my vote. I completed my numbering on the green and white paper, and felt a sense of pride as they were lodged. How lucky we are!

All around the world people die trying to access a right to vote.  People are killed for political stances. Communities are bribed to vote in certain ways.

1.4 million eligible Australians were not registered to participate in the election today (according to Channel 10 coverage just now). And countless Aussies have had a whinge on social media and to anyone who would listen about having to vote - for taking an hour out of their weekend for the right to have a say. I heard many people talk about doing a protest vote, or an informal vote on purpose. Imagine explaining that to someone in a land like Burma, who long for their vote to be safe, and honoured.

Polling closes shortly on this side of the country, and the counting begins. Australia holds it's breath for the outcome...

The Laneways Of Siem Reap

Siem Reap has changed a lot in ten years. The little town I remember, with just a handful of bars in the centre, is unrecognisable today. Those bars have multiplied into "Pub Street", full with huge neon signs pointing it out to you, in case you missed it.

It also has a laneway system of restaurants and shops running behind Pub Street, which brings life and culture, and amazing food selections, to the centre of town, and makes it an unmissable area.

These quaint laneways are now the lifeblood of the town, with perfect places to find for brunch, lunch or for snacking treats and coffee. There are also bars and an impressive range of cuisine - from local Khmer fare, to the Cambodian BBQ where you cook your own meats on a round gas grill right there on your table, to all manner of Western meals.

These lanes are vibrant, and come to life as the sun goes down. The perfect end to a day exploring the temple area, and getting amongst the masses of more independent travellers. Be sure to sample the Fish Amok around here, still my favourite meal on the planet!

Magical Ta Prohm

Made famous by Angelina Jolie and her Tomb Raider movie, and also the use of a photo of a door and a massive tree root on the cover of Lonely Planet for Cambodia, Ta Prohm is the "jungle temple".

Not too far from the Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom complexes, this temple sees probably as much tourist traffic as the other two because of the modern day claims to fame. But the enchanting view of the battle between ancient civilisation constructions and nature warrant attention in their own right.

The area was obvious cleared of trees for the temple, and then since the end of the Angkor era, the forest has been working it's way back to the area.

The way the trees have grown on and over the walls and structures of the temple is mainly the act of birds, who have picked up seeds on their travels and dropped some here and there, on the temple stones.

These massive trees have then had time to sprout, and wind their roots around the temple elements over the years and years when the temples were lost. The root systems battling with the ancient stones makes for an impressive site.

Many of the tree roots have woven through the laid stone bricks, in search of earth and water.

This young lad, above, was just hanging about, a child of the area I assume. He almost seemed to be hamming it up for the cameras, but he was also just going about his day.

The collision between jungle and temple makes Ta Prohm one of the most crumbly structures of the ancient cities, but given the magic of the trees, surely it should not be any other way!

Sunrise Stages Over Angkor Wat

I have been to sunrise ON Angkor Wat, but of the other two times I have been, I had never watching the sun rise behind the iconic temple. This visit I watched the sky gain colour, and the shapes of Angkor appear out of the darkness from the edge of the lotus pond. It was incredible.

Getting there in the dark, a light needed to navigate the uneven-ness of the walkway from the road leading to Angkor Wat, we met up as arranged and then made our way to the edge of the water, to the back left corner.

For some time nothing really happened, other than more tourists arriving in the dark and creating noise around the pond. Imagination made the temple appear now and then....and then there was a hint of light.

Once the pond in front of us took shape, we could see the pink lotus flowers on the surface, and soon the reflection made the early morning rise all worth the effort.

These photos were taken in order, as the sky coloured, and filled with light. Once the sun was actually up much of the crowd moved around a little to capture the ball of light as it showed itself above the ancient city.

Soon enough, the sky was fully lit, and the heat of the sun returned with it's humidity. As did the foreground to the temple, as the tour groups waited for the main attraction to be open for exploration.

Scenes Of Bayon

I was pretty excited to return to the Angkor cities in Siem Reap last week, even though I had been a couple of times before. These temples are something that you could explore over and over, and still see new things, learn new facts about the ancient civilisation, or see more crumbling or renovation being done.

Bayon is still my favourite temple city of the area, with the faces watching you from the highest points, from every angle. But there is also the smaller detail to capture your imagination. All along the lower level of the Bayon temple are bas-reliefs with tales of battle and war, but also on one side, of everyday life. This was my spot of fascination.

Here, along this panel running the length of the temple, you can see people playing checkers, top, or women gossipping around a table, just above.

Here, a child is reaching for perhaps his parent, and below is the scene where a woman is giving birth.

These take a bit of patience to find, and unless you are there very early in the morning, you are probably also dodging mass tour groups with their tour leader yelling out information in any language.

These photos in this post were taken during my first visit to the temples, back in 2002, but three of these 4 scenes I managed to find again in this most recent visit last week.

Bayon seemed a little more run down this visit, a little more crumbly. But there was also a lot more repair and restoration efforts going on on the lawn in front of the temple, so perhaps soon it there will be areas in better shape, returning sections to it's near original glory.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

Wares Of Psar Toul Tom Poung

The Russian Market, or Psar Toul Tom Poung, in Phnom Penh, is easily one of my favourite spots in the city. Most of us could not resist a visit on our return to PP, and I included it on my trip around to the sights of the city.

Just as I remembered it, this is a market of aisles and aisles of wares - I started where the clothing is on offer, many brand name clothes made in the outskirts of PP in the sweatshops.

Moving through, there is a section for fabric, with raw silk being a specialty of this Cambodian market. Stalls aplenty on either side of the aisle, with every pattern you can imagine (and some that you would rather not have seen!). But great for purchasing and having one of the ladies on the inner area of the market make it into a garment from one you want copied, or even just have a picture of.

This was also a market we used to buy homewares from, such as plates and bowl, and ornamental pieces. Lamps seem to be a popular stall, as well as wooden wares.

Paintings, and every souvenir possible, can also be found deep within the market. On one side of the outer layer of stalls can be found rows of silver jewelry and then electronics and fake copies of CDs and DVDs.

There is a row of restaurant stalls right in the middle, and then the further end of the market has hardware supplies and vehicle odds and ends. Really, anything you need can be found here, with some patience and perseverance!

It is still very much a maze once you start getting into the grid of the inner aisles, so easy to get lost...and find yourself buying something that you didn't mean to!

One of the key spots to visit in PP, the Russian Market is something to be experienced. Just make sure you go armed with your bargaining skills!

The Sailing Club in Kep

Not far from our stay in Kep, was the beautiful Sailing Club. The perfect spot for sunset drinks, and dinner!

Right on the water, the Sailing Club features the pier, which allows you to travel out to surround yourself with the water, and look back on the Kep coast area.

The colours of sunset in this part of the world were just incredible.

Back on the shore, we took up a table to the side of the old restored fisherman's house for cocktails before dinner.

Our large group enjoyed the happy hour drinks, with many of the cocktails having a local fruit take on a regular mix.

As the light faded, we moved to ordering dinner, which was pretty awesome too. A mix of Cambodia dishes and a few Western selections, the little kitchen here has something for everyone.

We enjoyed this visit so much, we returned for a final lunch in Kep on our last day, sitting on the verandah of the house, overhanging the ocean.

Such a piece of bliss down here on the water, tucked away from the hustle of the one main street and the markets, great food, amazing view, and awesome cocktails!

Our stay down in Kep was really magical, and this place only added to that experience! So pretty!

Our 10 Year AYAD Reunion

Landing in Phnom Penh after my stopover in Kuala Lumpur, I was greeted at the airport by a taxi driver holding a sign up with my name on it. How exciting! That has never happened before, and it was such a treat, and so easy for an arrival. Thanks Evie!

Getting to Circa 51 in PP, I joined Jane, Dom and Evie for drinks and catch ups. Amy joined us, after just starting a new role in PP, and we headed out for dinner at the Russian restaurant Irena's. This was followed by drinks at an old favourite, Rubies Wine Bar, and ended with karaoke at a place called The Rock. Private rooms in a massive complex, this was a very funny and crazy end to a big night.

The next day 8 of us, including Sarah, Dan and Rachel, and Majid,, plus little Maya travelled down to Kep for 2 nights of blissful relaxation.

Returning to PP, we greeted a couple more arrivals in Nick and Vince, and had Amy rejoin us after work. Dinner on the terrace at Circa 51

Friday night was our big night together, which started with a sunset river cruise. Borin joined us also for this, which was very special.

Taking a boat almost to ourselves, we took in the sights and the stories from the last 10 years. Seeing the skyline of PP from the river, and the changes we could spot, as darkness fell was really cool, and a pretty awesome way to hang out together.

Touching back on our old traditions, we then made it to the Elephant Bar at Raffles for happy hour cocktails. This was followed by dinner, and then ended with drinks on a rooftop bar - which was a totally new experience in the new, modern Phnom Penh!

There is already talk of returning for our 20 year reunion, within this group of Australian Youth Ambassadors for Development group, back at Intake 8. Catching up with the group, it was so amazing to hear of all the things and places we have been up to since our work in Cambodia. Seriously inspiring.

A Tour Around The PP Sights

Returning the Phnom Penh last week, I was keen to get a look at the old, and new sights, with a mini tour around the city. I took a tuk tuk for a big lap of some of the key places, and walked to a few other old haunts.

One of the main differences to strike me when getting around the city is the change in transport from primarily motos 10 years ago, to cars now. Also, there is height in the skyline now! With many, many new shiny developments on the go.

As I rode past the slums in the south of the city, these appeared the same. Just now surrounded by new developments of big hotels and proposed office blocks.

After a wander through Psar Toul Tom Poung (the Russian Market), which is the same as always, and amazing, I visited Wat Phnom at the top of the city, which I actually had not done before.  This active temple and stupor used to be the highest point of the city. Now, from the surrounds you can see the new buildings of PP being built blocks away.

From here, I visited the iconic Central Market, which also looked the same from my time here 10 years ago, albeit cleaner and a little fresher after it's recent refurbishment.

Walking through the arms of the market into the central dome area, I experienced the smells and sights of the foods, fabrics, toys, tools, and then the electronics and watches on display in glass cabinets under the dome.

Just a couple of blocks from Central Market is the new, tallest building, underconstruction. This new development has a funky curved front, and is reportedly going to be an office block. Next to this is the new, finished building that we nicknamed the 'perfume bottle' after spotting it from the river at night.

These modern new buildings have altered the skyline of Phnom Penh completely, which used to only feature the Royal Palace, and the Independence Monument from some streets. Now the 'perfume bottle' stands out, with the towering new development sure to be a feature upon completion. Getting around PP, there are also signs and beginnings of more and more new buildings. PP is changing indeed.

Visiting at this time, just months after the death of the former King Norodom Sihanouk, it was evident at every street that this is a country still very much in mourning. The former King will be laid to rest following his funeral at the end of this month.

Throughout the city his likeness is displayed, with black mourning curtains on each sign. There are groups of mourners outside the Palace everyday, and people selling black ribbons and King memorabilia. A very meaningful time to have visited the city again.

Paradise In Kep

After arriving back into Cambodia last week for our 10 year reunion, and following a fun night out in Phnom Penh, 8 of us plus little Maya made the trip down to the coast and the town of Kep. A four plus hour trip in a mini-van, and then we arrived in paradise!

We had Villa Romonea to ourselves, an amazing retreat to relax and catch up with one another.

Built in the late 1960s by a Khmer family of the area, the house has some incredible history. Stefan told us the story of the house and it's survival and phases soon after we arrived, and we were in awe of the place.

Built with the shape of a dragon in mind, the features including the head and tail, the scales on the back of the dragon, and even the gills, were pointed out to us. All lovingly restored to it's glory just 6 years ago.

During the war and Khmer Rouge occupation, this house was one of the few that was looked after and cleaned by the KR - because they used it to store their fishery supplies. Heavily guarded in a time of deprivation for the rest of the people, Stefan showed us photos of the state of the building when the new, current owners took it on.

The house, and the setting in front of the Bokor mountains and sitting watching out to sea and Vietnam, is stunningly beautiful.

Of course, the infinity pool and decking, was gorgeous, and the area we lounged and ate and drink, read and swam, and talked.

The attention to detail in the restoration, and the fittings as an accommodation option in the small town of Kep, was impressive. The staff took care of our group's needs, and we had food delivered from a local restaurant for the first night.

An amazing, unforgettable way to come together as a group and spend time with each other.

Project 52: Thursday Afternoon

This week as part of our 10 year Cambodia reunion, we found paradise! We travelled down to Kep, and stayed in a gorgeous, gorgeous villa. The perfect catch up. On Thursday afternoon we spent more time by the infinity pool, catching up with each others lives, and taking in this view, as well as marveling about the house we were staying in. I will tell you more about it in another post in a few days....

This post is part of Project 52 with Jess from FuShMuSh.

Train Travel In Cambodia

Discovering train travel in Battambang on a return trip in 2004, found two very different forms and experiences, and a very authentic-feeling experience in rural Cambodia.

The bamboo train was the most memorable, and most quirky, mode of transport I have ever taken. We rode it for a short distance, after taking some motos (motorbikes with a driver) for a tour around the countryside around Battambang. The bamboo train is essentially a platform on wheels that travel on the railway tracks, and powered by the smallest of motors.

Given that it is one of the rural resident’s usual modes of travel, we shared our two platforms with local farmers, chickens, and other locals moving in the area.

The bamboo train shared the single track with the regular train, but also travels in either direction. When traveling along encountering another bamboo train coming in the other direction is the norm, and the point of the most bizarre experience.

Upon meeting up with another bamboo train coming the other way, it is determined which is the heaviest of the two, and then both sets of travellers set about taking the lighter of the bamboo train platform and all it’s cargo off the track. The heavier bamboo train is then able to pass by, and the lighter bamboo train is lifted back onto the tracks, with all the things it was carrying, to continue on it’s way.

After recovering from the longest laughing session and that bamboo train experience, we caught an actual train to our next destination, in another very local experience. The hard wooden seats, and the very open carriages, it was an authentic way to take in the countryside going past. We were also offered all sorts of food and treats from the locals, and lost a couple of our seats at one point when a very large haul of pineapples were loaded on at one stop. The hammocks on board, however, more than made up for this!

These travels were part of an alternative trip from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, which included a boat across the Tonle Sap Lake, then overland and train travel through Pursat and Battambang - worth trying if you have the time, for a different view of the country.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer. These photos, and memories, are actually from a return trip in 2004.