Wares Of Psar Toul Tom Poung

The Russian Market, or Psar Toul Tom Poung, in Phnom Penh, is easily one of my favourite spots in the city. Most of us could not resist a visit on our return to PP, and I included it on my trip around to the sights of the city.

Just as I remembered it, this is a market of aisles and aisles of wares - I started where the clothing is on offer, many brand name clothes made in the outskirts of PP in the sweatshops.

Moving through, there is a section for fabric, with raw silk being a specialty of this Cambodian market. Stalls aplenty on either side of the aisle, with every pattern you can imagine (and some that you would rather not have seen!). But great for purchasing and having one of the ladies on the inner area of the market make it into a garment from one you want copied, or even just have a picture of.

This was also a market we used to buy homewares from, such as plates and bowl, and ornamental pieces. Lamps seem to be a popular stall, as well as wooden wares.

Paintings, and every souvenir possible, can also be found deep within the market. On one side of the outer layer of stalls can be found rows of silver jewelry and then electronics and fake copies of CDs and DVDs.

There is a row of restaurant stalls right in the middle, and then the further end of the market has hardware supplies and vehicle odds and ends. Really, anything you need can be found here, with some patience and perseverance!

It is still very much a maze once you start getting into the grid of the inner aisles, so easy to get lost...and find yourself buying something that you didn't mean to!

One of the key spots to visit in PP, the Russian Market is something to be experienced. Just make sure you go armed with your bargaining skills!

Our 10 Year AYAD Reunion

Landing in Phnom Penh after my stopover in Kuala Lumpur, I was greeted at the airport by a taxi driver holding a sign up with my name on it. How exciting! That has never happened before, and it was such a treat, and so easy for an arrival. Thanks Evie!

Getting to Circa 51 in PP, I joined Jane, Dom and Evie for drinks and catch ups. Amy joined us, after just starting a new role in PP, and we headed out for dinner at the Russian restaurant Irena's. This was followed by drinks at an old favourite, Rubies Wine Bar, and ended with karaoke at a place called The Rock. Private rooms in a massive complex, this was a very funny and crazy end to a big night.

The next day 8 of us, including Sarah, Dan and Rachel, and Majid,, plus little Maya travelled down to Kep for 2 nights of blissful relaxation.

Returning to PP, we greeted a couple more arrivals in Nick and Vince, and had Amy rejoin us after work. Dinner on the terrace at Circa 51

Friday night was our big night together, which started with a sunset river cruise. Borin joined us also for this, which was very special.

Taking a boat almost to ourselves, we took in the sights and the stories from the last 10 years. Seeing the skyline of PP from the river, and the changes we could spot, as darkness fell was really cool, and a pretty awesome way to hang out together.

Touching back on our old traditions, we then made it to the Elephant Bar at Raffles for happy hour cocktails. This was followed by dinner, and then ended with drinks on a rooftop bar - which was a totally new experience in the new, modern Phnom Penh!

There is already talk of returning for our 20 year reunion, within this group of Australian Youth Ambassadors for Development group, back at Intake 8. Catching up with the group, it was so amazing to hear of all the things and places we have been up to since our work in Cambodia. Seriously inspiring.

A Tour Around The PP Sights

Returning the Phnom Penh last week, I was keen to get a look at the old, and new sights, with a mini tour around the city. I took a tuk tuk for a big lap of some of the key places, and walked to a few other old haunts.

One of the main differences to strike me when getting around the city is the change in transport from primarily motos 10 years ago, to cars now. Also, there is height in the skyline now! With many, many new shiny developments on the go.

As I rode past the slums in the south of the city, these appeared the same. Just now surrounded by new developments of big hotels and proposed office blocks.

After a wander through Psar Toul Tom Poung (the Russian Market), which is the same as always, and amazing, I visited Wat Phnom at the top of the city, which I actually had not done before.  This active temple and stupor used to be the highest point of the city. Now, from the surrounds you can see the new buildings of PP being built blocks away.

From here, I visited the iconic Central Market, which also looked the same from my time here 10 years ago, albeit cleaner and a little fresher after it's recent refurbishment.

Walking through the arms of the market into the central dome area, I experienced the smells and sights of the foods, fabrics, toys, tools, and then the electronics and watches on display in glass cabinets under the dome.

Just a couple of blocks from Central Market is the new, tallest building, underconstruction. This new development has a funky curved front, and is reportedly going to be an office block. Next to this is the new, finished building that we nicknamed the 'perfume bottle' after spotting it from the river at night.

These modern new buildings have altered the skyline of Phnom Penh completely, which used to only feature the Royal Palace, and the Independence Monument from some streets. Now the 'perfume bottle' stands out, with the towering new development sure to be a feature upon completion. Getting around PP, there are also signs and beginnings of more and more new buildings. PP is changing indeed.

Visiting at this time, just months after the death of the former King Norodom Sihanouk, it was evident at every street that this is a country still very much in mourning. The former King will be laid to rest following his funeral at the end of this month.

Throughout the city his likeness is displayed, with black mourning curtains on each sign. There are groups of mourners outside the Palace everyday, and people selling black ribbons and King memorabilia. A very meaningful time to have visited the city again.

The PP Slums

This building in Phnom Penh was just a few streets away from where we lived - lived in luxury in NGO land - as a very real reminder of the poverty and life conditions faced by so many Khmers who needed to live in the city.

Such real life here, on display for all to see. I don't know whether this building was built with this in mind, or whether it has just been allowed to get to this state over time, over-crowding, and neglect of assistance and support to those in need - but it was a sight of harsh reality every time we went past.

I am on the countdown now until I return to PP for our reunion this month, and the thought of our visit makes me wonder how much has changed in the city since I was there in 2002-3, and my return visits in 2004 and 2005.

These photos were actually taken when I was in PP in 2004, but this is just how I remember The Slums from 10 years ago.

Surely a country's progress out of the Developing Nations status should be measured on sites like these, and the improvement of the living conditions for people in areas like this - Cambodia still has a lot of work, and assistance needs, to go.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

Thai Embassy Burning

One of the primary targets of the rioting in Phnom Penh back in January 2003 was the Thai Embassy.  The destruction of the building was pretty symbolic and complete by the raging mob on that night.

Again, the chance to have a look at such destruction was pretty tempting, coming from somewhere like Australia where Occupational Health & Safety, and general liability fears, would prevent anyone from going anywhere near such damage. Not to mention the criminal investigations that would go on if such a thing was to occur at home.  Not in Cambodia though.

The sight of massive military tanks on the street, barbed wire attempting to look like the area was cordoned off, and the police presence was there - just not very effective. Nor were they trying to be.

Taking in the pink Royal Thai Embassy, sooty and a shell, we were actually able to get up to the gate to have a look through the broken gates.

The smell and the sight of the burnt out car at the front, told the tale of the night of that week.  All sparked by a comment, maybe exaggerated and highlighted in the "right" circles for such a response.  This event was such an eye-opener as an Expat.

Again, at no time did we feel unsafe while all this went on, it was very targetted and all over in a few hours.  But just a strange example of the way such a country works sometimes - or doesn't, depending on which side of the riot you believe.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

A School Visit in Phnom Penh

Working in a shelter for girls (and a couple of boys) in Phnom Penh 10 years ago, I had the opportunity to attend some of the classes run on site, but also went along one day to check out the school where some of the kids went most days.

Standing out like any expat visitor would at such a place, I was swamped by the kids out in the school yard, and then invited in to a couple of the classrooms to have a peak.

A tiny, extra, window into the Khmer way of life.

Every girl deserves access to an education, it's a basic human right, and the start in life that will support her life, her family's life, and the lives of future generations.

These kids, without support from an external party like the shelter I worked in, struggle to access the opportunity we all take for granted.  Little bribes for school books, to have school work marked by the teacher, and even just to have the teacher show up, were common stories.

Some very familiar faces among these old photos - I wonder what they are up to now, all these years later...

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

Our Expat Life in PP

The work I did in Phnom Penh, 10 years ago, could be pretty confronting, but the life we lived as expatriates certainly balancing things out.  It was, socially, one of the best times I can remember.

Four of us lived in this house, for my first few months in Cambodia.  This house was ridiculous - 5 bedrooms, 7 bathrooms.  It was all marble and tile downstairs, and In the neighbourhood the Khmers call "NGO land", our big house was within our stipend budget and surrounded by many well known development agencies, housed in buildings not too unlike our house.

We could walk to a local market, and most importantly to a cafe where we spent a hell of a lot of time!

We developed some pretty regular patterns during the week, with many of us finding our favourite weekend brunch spot across the road from the harrowing Tuol Sleng, but also finding happy hour on a Friday night after work at the Elephant Bar at Raffles and then at the FCCC.

It will be interesting to get back to PP and check what's new, and what is still the same of our old haunts.

Everyday at work, I would eat lunch with the girls and the expat staff onsite.  The Centre had several French staff members, a Sri Lankan, and would have the occasional group of volunteers passing through who taught French or English.  We would all sit at the tabled in the courtyard of the Centre, and share lunch.

The kitchen staff would have prepared the lunch meal for much of the morning, from the market supplies bought each week.  I would spend a lot of time with the women as they cooked, and helped with food handling training and anything else that was needed.

Getting around PP was mostly on the back of motorbikes.  I employed a day driver in addition to finding my night driver, to take me to and from work every day, from one side of Phnom Penh to the other.  My driver would weave us through the traffic, and the fumes and grit, every day.  As we left for the day, he would take me wherever I wanted to go - often caught in the regular torrential rains right on time as we had just left the shelter of the Centre!

Just a couple of windows into the life we lead over there, working as volunteers in Cambodia, all those years ago.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

To Market, To Market

One of my strongest memories of my time with the staff at the shelter I worked in in Phnom Penh, was the day I tagged along with Nina, our cook, to the market for the weekly shop.  Surely one of my most authentic glimpses into Khmer life.

Boeng Keng Kang Market was where she did the shopping for the supplies for the shelter. Here she carefully stuck to her list and budget, and stocked up to feed the children for the week.

Boeng Keng Kang was also a market that I had not really spent much time in, usually spending my time at Psar Tuol Tom Pong, (Russian Market), for clothes, music, fabric and little treasures.

Walking around Boeng Keng Kang, trailing after Nina who was all business in picking out the best of the ingredients, I witnessed the bargaining and interactions with the vendors, whom she clearly had ongoing connections with, given her regular task of doing the shopping here.

The sights of fresh vegetables, many of which I had never seen before, and the array of spices was a visual spectacular, all arranged and on display at each stall.

The smells are something you do not forget from an open air food market like this!  And the sights of meats and fish on display are also not for the weak stomached Westerner!

Nina also loved having me along, as she told each of her vendors that I was her work colleague, and that I was from Australia.  They greeted me after my limited in-training Khmer greeting back, and then Nina would complete her deal and probably be gossiping about me with the people at each stall.  This was at a point where there was so much of the context of a conversation I could pick up, so the interactions were all a bit of fun when I could interject with one of my very few Khmer words or phrases.

We also stopped and had breakfast in the market together, which Nina loved!  A fish curry that was so delicious - but I am certain was the source of my typhiod-like illness in the weeks that followed.   Oops! Still, despite the pain and fever that ensued, I wouldn't take back having that meal with her there.  Felt like such a special time.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

Ashes of the Royal Phnom Penh Hotel

With the prison sentence of a Cambodian radio station host this week, for broadcasting political messages on the wrong side of the present government, I got a rush of memory about a riot started by the very same kind of medium back in January of 2003 - when the streets of Phnom Penh went crazy, all around us!

Reportedly the result of a broadcast about comments made by a Thai actress stating that Angkor Wat really belonged to Thailand, an angry and destructive mob ruled the streets for a night.

Ash was visiting at the time, and Rach and I were living behind the National Museum - we had a view from our balcony of some of the action including gunshots in our street, all carried out by several herds of people on motorbikes.  The power had gone out, and we watched on in safety above the streets.

As foreigners, we seemed to be perfectly safe, with the mob being very targeted to Thai owned businesses. In the aftermath the border between Thailand and Cambodia was closed, but not for non-Nationals of either country, and Thai nationals were evacuated from the city.  The political blame game in the week after just added to the bemusement of expats and the ongoing corruption allegations that were rife.

Of the Thai businesses around the city that were targeted, and set alight and allowed to burn down to the ground, the Royal Phnom Penh Hotel struck a chord with our group living and working in PP, as that was the venue for our Xmas lunch just the month before.

Adding to the surreal nature of the week, in the days after the riot people off the street brazen enough to walk past the nonchalant "security" guards with guns at the entrance were able to walk through the ruins of the Hotel.  These photos are what it looked like on the day I went for a look.

It was irresistible to go and try to walk through the burnt out shell of the building, through the corridors and rooms, and past the pool in it's devatated state.  Where else would you ever get such a chance to see something like this!  Effectively a crime scene, with no one really caring to preserve or bother with the course of justice.

Cars and vans in the parking lot out the front were burnt out, and remained where they had been set alight.

People stood around and watched on - but the real activity was going on inside the building. Looters were working away at pulling everything of worth out of the rubble, with most focus being on the copper within the wiring of the rooms.  Teams of kids and men were frantic, getting their score of goodies.

There was still smoke billowing out of sections of the rubble as we walked through, soot and ash floating around the air and coating the tourists and opportunists the same.

Given the standing structure of the building, it didn't feel gravely dangerous to wander around in there - but a thrillingly forbidden experience nonetheless. There were certainly areas where you needed to tread more carefully, but given the volume of people in the building, and the path of the looters in the hours before, we were fine.

Unlike the jail sentence this week, there were arrests made after this riot in 2003 for incitement, bail was posted after much controversy about the arrests and no trial was ever set.  Life went back to normal pretty quickly, buildings were rebuilt in no time, and all that was left was a wondrous disbelief about whether it all really happened!

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

Khmer Baby Naming Ceremony

One of the very first outings with the children of the centre I worked for in Phnon Penh was to one of the big temple complexes of the city for the naming ceremony of the baby in residence. This was my first glimpse into the Buddhist traditions, as I observed each of the children carry out their roles and watch as one of the teacher's of the Center lead them through the process.


We all piled into the Center's tuk tuk, cramming in as many bodies as was possible, to make the journey through the crazy traffic from the neighbourhood of the shelter into the more central area of PP. Along with us in this open-air mode of transport were our lunch supplies for the day's outing, with rice and curry in tin stackable carriers.

It was such a privilege to visit a temple like this, and see the monks in action. Particularly the elder who blessed our shelter's baby. Seeing these men in their varying shades of orange and magenta in their homes, with their study and sleeping quarters just meters from the key prayer areas of the temple - such a window into their world.

Considering the threat to such traditions being completing wiped out by the Khmer Rouge, it was lovely to see a new generation being stepped through the rituals and importance of such occasions.

These pictures remind me of so many special times with these girls, and the couple of boys, we had at the shelter whilst I was there. Such characters and hope within these little people, who had each faces such unimaginable things in their lives.

The baby in the center, for whom this outing was all about, was the child of one of the older and longest standing girls in the shelter. She was the same age as I was at the time of my volunteer period over there, and we spent quite a lot of time together.

Some of my role morphed into one of a maternal and child support person for this young mother, and I too spent many hours trying to get this little one off to sleep as his mother completed her chores within the house.


This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer.

FCC, back to Bangas, and my Red Leather Jacket!!

After abandoning lunch with Evie and Sharee and Luke just after my last post, I managed to recover from my hangover poolside at the very lovely The Billabong. Perfect! Was just what I needed (seeing that I have been so flat out for the week? Yeah, right!).

So, of course, the only thing to do after that was to head to the FCC, for my farewell drinks during Happy Hour. The FCC has always been a favourite of mine, and many a happy hour has been spent watching the world speed past on the streets below, throughout my visits to Cambodia. (Another photo.)

Goodbyes to Luke (who I may just have to go to see in Toronto in the future!), and Sharee and Cal over a couple of Angkor beers. Has been so great to see them again.

Dinner with Evie and Magid, and a viewing of Amelie on DVD, before packing up all my bits and pieces followed. Was still worried about my baggage allowance, especially with my shopping tendencies and after having to pay excess the first time I left Cambodia - but again, worried for nothing!

A BIG thank you to the lovely Yvette for letting me stay with her, and hang out, and veg out while she had to work. Was lovely to see you, as always!

Taxi to the airport, and then the flight to Bangas. A cold sweat landing for me - you would think I would be over my dislike of flying by now!! - and a taxi return to my hotel on the Silom area of Bangkok.

Amid a slight gut upset, with the ever pressing thought of "where is the nearest bathroom??!!", I had set myself two tasks to do this afternoon while in Bangas - have have managed both!! I have sought out one of the two travel agents here in Bagkok who can supply you with a Japan Rail Pass, and made the purchase which will cover me for most of my train travel in Japan for the next 7 days - how cool is that! It has cost me as much as a return trip would to Kyoto, but will cover me for most of the Toyko travel, and also out further if I want to (which I am now intending too).

The other tasks was to pick up my tailor-made Red Leather Jacket! I am very excited about this! The place was called D3, and is probably more known to the tuk tuk drives as a jewellers. But let them also be known for my jacket! Very happy with this purchase - I will have to go back to my A/C room and wear it around a bit! Hee hee.

With an early, early flight tomorrow morning (whose idea was that??!), I will probably need to have a nanna night tonight. I will also need to finally open my second suitcase and try and convince myself that I WILL need those winter clothes now - and with the next couple of days in Toyko forecast for a top of 8C, I will have to get those thermals out! From 34C here today (feels like 41C according to Yahoo weather - no kidding!), will be an interesting change to say the least!

As Heart as it gets!

Am feeling quite dodgy this morning, after a late night at the Heart of Darkness last night. This crusty little nightclub hasn't changed since I was last here, and Curtis and I were amazed at how many people were there last night. They played all the same bad music, and Curtis kept saying "ohhh, this is as Heart as it gets!!".

I ran into Curtis early on in the day at Psar Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market), where I managed to add to my luggage excess situation, just a little. It's just too hard not to go shopping crazy there!

For lunch I meet Charmaine, Magid, and Curtis at Mith Samlanh/Friends, and also got to catch up with Borin. Borin is working and studying hard, but is still his loveable, smiling self. Although he doesn't have as much chance for sleeping on the job nowadays. (When he was our guard at my big house here, I think infected him with our lack of work ethic). Was great to see him, and catch up.

After picking up my beautiful Beautiful Shoes (very exciting!!), I popped in to see Nina again. Once she had finished work her husband, and my former day moto driver, Mr Thon, took me out to see Phanny, and her family, and her new house. Phanny is still working at Sok Sabay, but luckily is not as scared of Marie as most of the staff, and manages to stick up for herself. Good for her. She and her family are living in a much better and bigger place than the one room I visited last night, although it is still quite far out of the city.

On the way out there, the traffic was madness, and I saw a pretty bad accident. It looked like a driver on a moto had come off, and he was not in a good way. Always a troubling sight, especially when you see that noone does anything. The police were just standing around taking notes. That poor man's family.

After dinner at home thanks to Evie's cleaning girl, Ty (and Evie uses the word "cleaning" here loosely!! Hee hee!), we headed out to Ruby's for a couple of drinks with Charmaine. Curtis came along later, and while the working girls called it a night, Curtis and I headed off for his last night in town.

We went to the Ginger Monkey, which is a new bar around the corner from my old place, and met up with Heather, who is now doing Curtis' old job at the uni. Another Canadian. After a few more Ankgor's, we headed off for the Heart....

Anyway, still S.T.Ruggling here. I am meeting the girls for lunch now, and then I think I will recover for the rest of the day by the pool at The Billabong.

Sa-rah, motorides, and Nina!

I feel like I have had a productive day today! Unusual for me! I have finally booked my accommodation for the first couple of nights in Tokyo for next week, and if I manage to find the place, with all the complex train changes, it's going to be so cute! I also picked up my fake prescription glasses (so cheap, I got two this time!), and had a yummy lunch at Boat Noodle - another favourite place to eat. The Khmer Curry Chicken is one I dream about! Mmmmm!

I have caught up with my lovely night moto driver, or rather he has found me. As usual. Always nice to walk out of somewhere at night and see the ever smiling Sa-rah waiting for me. As well as Jim and Samnang. I was quite shocked to learn that he had 2 children though! 6 and a 3 year old, at that! I don't think I had ever asked about children before, just about being married or having girlfriend (just for converstion, you understand!). I guess I have always thought he was way to young for the babies question. He assures me he is not married though!

I always feel totally safe when using one of our moto posse to get home from anywhere. Each of them know where we live, or where we are staying, so there is never need to give directions after a few too many. And these lads also know our patterns, and thus, always manage to find us most nights. It's very reassuring. I always find that I rarely hang on with one of these boys, whereas normally I am still alert and have one hand keeping me on the bike at all times with any other moto driver. Of course, we pay these boys well, so they look out for us too!

It seems many of the roads here in PP have been done up, cos there are not as many potholes. Not as many instances when you feel yourself leaving the seat of the moto! I so love the moto ride home at night, when it's cool and there is not such much traffic. I guess the next best thing to this would be to learn to ride myself (although I will need to re-learn how to ride a normal bike first!!).

I have found Nina today, one of the women I worked with at Sok Sabay 2 years ago. (Still run by the evil French woman). She is now working at I & You Cafe, which the Khmer's call the Condom Cafe. It is an affiliate of Mith Samlanh/FRIENDS, and provides HIV/AIDS education and health care to the street children, and women from the factories.

They have a doctor upstairs for the women to see, and they also have English and cooking classes for the children. Nina was so very excited to see me! She tells me her boys are doing well at school, and that work is better for her now. Was so good to see her. Now that I know where she is, I will pop in a few more times before I go.

Beautiful Nina
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Beers and being an expat in PP

Am having so much fun catching up with everyone here in Phnom Penh, and eating and drinking at all the old haunts. And some of the new ones! There have been a few surprises actually, like Curtis being in town - had no idea he was popping in from Canada at the same time.

Watching the cricket on Friday at the Gym Bar (which was actually called something else when I lived here - a typical recycling) with Magid and Cal, and later Sharee, Evie and Curtis. The Gym Bar seems to be Aussie run, but is a typical male expat bar - sports on the big screen, beer and whiskey (or whatever), and taxi-girls a-plenty. Luckily the cricket is one too early for it's full glory.

After watching the Aussie's win, I had a cocktail with Sharee and a bit of a catch-up, Japanese for dinner, and then later that night we all went off to Elsewhere for a party they had on.

Elsewhere is also a new place to me - it is actually a beautiful white french style house on amazing gardens, set up as a bar/cafe/shop/pool place to be. Friday night there seemed to be every young expat in town wandering around the gardens, and tiny dancefloor - where are all those people everyday??!!

There never seemed to be that many people floating around town when I lived here!! Unfortunately, Evie was wondering that same... (More photos.)

Spent yesterday, after a reimenicent PP hangover, poolside at Le Royal- very nice! Slipping into the expat style of looking for the newest and most "you could be anywhere", "it doesn't even feel like you are in Phnom Penh" places is all a bit too easy - although not necessarily what I want to do as a visitor. Luckily as a lady of leisure during the work week, I can visit the usual Khmer-ish places!

Off now to watch the second innings of the cricket back at the Gym Bar....

'Nommers

I am back in Phnom Penh again. My third visit, and I am sure just one of many more after living here for 6 months in 2002/03. I love this city, it's people (of course, the corruption and poverty make me mad, don't get me wrong!). I feel at home here, and can navigate my way around so easily. And I love getting around on a moto!!

Upon arriving yesterday morning, I went along to Evie's work, and then she showed me her new place - very nice! She always has such luck with places, although she does say she is hoping to find better! Always! We organised to meet for lunch at Java (one of my favourite places), where Evie was also meeting Charmaine. So great to catch up with the girls! Both working very hard as usual.

An afternoon stop at the infamous Beautiful Shoes, for a measurement of my feet and leather selection for shoes to be made (more excess baggage!!).

Dinner with Evie, Luke and Cal at Your Thai Friend, and then off for cocktails at the 'gay-friendly' Salt Lounge - a very funky new bar.

Riding around the city, there are many familar places, and some very new ones too. It's still funny to walk into somewhere like Java where the main staff still recognise me!

Lunch today with Evie and Magid at Khmer Kitchen, for my much craved Fish Amok (mmmmmm!) - I think this will turn out to be an eating and drinking tour of PP!!

Magid has talked up Pakistan's chances for tomorrow's first ODI Final, and thus, he and I will be watching with much interest from a new (to me) sports bar he has talked about. Talk of a beer wager may see trouble, with Magid's elevated idea of the Paki's form....silly boy!