Holi - The Festival Of Colour

One of the highlights, and most anticipated dates of our India trip, fell on my last full day, being 27th of March this year - Holi. A Hindu religious festival and a celebration of the beginning of Spring, it's a national holiday and something I had wanted to experience for some time.

Holi is where coloured powder, and water, is thrown at each other on the streets, and everyone is fair game!

We were in Delhi for the day, and after having plotted out the clothes we could each throw out at the end of the day, and gathered our courage and went out to get amongst it.

Being a group of white tourists, especially with a few women in the group, meant we were popular targets for a "Happy Holi", and being smeared with coloured powder on our foreheads. Being sprayed with water, or coloured foam, or a variety of other coloured paints, and being dumped with water from the balconies above. All in fun, mostly, but it's certainly not for the faint hearted!

The girls in our group were particular targets, with touches to the face, the attempt at a full on hug, and then the surprising grope. It's didn't take long for us all to figure this out, and start keeping a distance between ourselves and the Holi well-wishers.

I certainly would not have done this alone, or in a smaller group. The hassling does go too far at times, and being in our big group protected us all, really.

But being out to enjoy the festival, it IS like a massive water fight as kids, with colour flying everywhere. The progression of our photos and colour coats was pretty awesome. We gave as good as we got, buying more coloured powders along the way, and painting the foreheads of anyone who would let us. It was a lot of fun!

I braved my camera, and it survived, and I managed to get plenty of photos. I took minimal things with me, and we only ventured into the small laneways of the bazaar not too far from our hotel.

We made our way to a central point in the bazaar, and having had enough of the attention and running low on powder, we decided a rooftop drinks break was in order. We managed to find a bar that smuggled beer to us, and had a lovely session away from the action, where we got to marvel and laugh at each other's colours. And for the first time, get a proper look at ourselves!

My, were we all a sight! Such a laugh, and so fun to be part of!

The Enchanting Jantar Mantars

Jantar Mantar is supposedly "abracadabra" in Hindi, and the sites of the same name in Delhi and in Jaipur which we visited certainly created a lot of mystery and alluded to a lot of magic.

In Delhi, the instruments of one of Maharaja Jai Singh II's five observatories around India are red, and magical. Measuring all matter of celestial things, these structures were built in 1725, and are reportedly bang on with accuracy with what they are measuring.

The Jantar Mantar in Jaipur is just next to the City Palace, and was built in 1728, are cream sandstone, and include each of the astrology signs which points line up to the stars.

Like a grown up playground, each instrument, many huge in size, can be walked around, or through, and the wonder is hard not to get caught up in. They are beautiful, and yet a world of mystery.

These structures in Jaipur have been restored and thus, are the best preserved. They have made the World Heritage List. Each one has the description of what it is measuring, and how, even if these are pretty complicated. You can take a guide to walk you through each one, if you have the time.

It's fascinating that such space and massive structures were devoted to the stars and the movement of the sun and moon, in such important places within each city. A complete enchantment of peace and wonder.

Farewell To The Little Master

Sachin Tendulkar padded up for what may be his final batting innings tonight (Aussie time). His 200th test match, which began today against the West Indies, held in Mumbai, has been announced as his last.

What an amazing career, story, and legend of the game.

Being at each of the grounds of the Aussie tour to see him play on home soil earlier this year was incredible. The noise, and electric atmosphere of the screaming, adoring fans. The palpable waves of emotions waiting for his turn out in the middle.

The fans, kids and grown men alike, would squeal every time he was near the ball, stand all session up against the high fence in the beating sun when he was on the boundary, and roar with delight when the up-and-coming batsmen in the batting order before him would lose their wicket.

I had considered "working from home" today, to watch it all unfold, although missed the chance with appointments being made. But checking the status at the start of the day's play made that move justified as India won the toss and elected to field, delaying the big moment.

Getting home from a crazy and full day, and being blessed with my current housesitting gig and it's full Foxtel package, I was sitting in front of the big screen with live images as India commenced their batting innings, and then the over that saw 2 wickets fall to bring The Little Master to the crease.

Finishing the day's play on 38*, with pretty impressive run making, and sets up a massive day of absenteeism in India tomorrow! The fairytale would be a great final innings. Can't wait to watch it unfold!

Jaipur: The Pink City

The early finish of the cricket test in Delhi meant that we got to squeeze in a trip to Jaipur after all, at the end of my 5 weeks in India. A bonus, because it was one of the places I really wanted to go - the Pink City is something to see!

We hired a van and a driver, and he took a group of us over to the remaining point of the Golden Triangle. We arrived around Amber Fort in time for the lighting show, before trailing into town to secure lodgings for the night. Up the next morning, we returned to the Fort to explore it, and take in the familiar layout.

We took a couple of jeeps up to the Fort, rather than riding the elephants up the ridiculously steep incline.

Walking through the outer gates, and up the stairs into the main courtyard, called the Jaleb Chowk, you are hit by the beauty of the yellow and pink sandstone Ganesh Gate. So much detail, intricate, and lovingly preserved. It was worth waiting for the crowds to move to get a good, clear and full view it.

Ganesh is the god who is meant to move all obstacles in life - what a stunning tribute to such a powerful Hindu legend!

One side of this courtyard featured lattice screens and archways, and gave a full view over the mountains and lakes for as far as the eye could see.

Moving through the gate to the next courtyard, the Hall of Audiences, and then again into the next one, which houses the Hall of Victory. Victory here is celebrated with mirrored mosaics, caricatures, and marble relief panels. Stunning, and so detailed, and extravagant.

The next section of the Fort was a massive complex of rooms and corridors, many floors up, like a labyrinth. Made like this so that the maharaja could visits his many wives without the others knowing.

Back into town, we then explored the City Palace, which was more courtyards and pink marble. We stumbled across a dancing, singing celebration within the first palace in the first courtyard, before we explored the many rooms from here.

The Palace is really two main courtyards, with the main one centred with the Welcome Palace, which now shows off the many royal costumes, mammoth dress shawls, and sports outfits.

But the most impressive spot of Jaipur for me was exploring the grand red sandstone facade of the Hawa Mahal. The most distinctive landmark of the city, this honeycombed hive of windows overshadows one of the busiest streets - of course it was covered in scaffolding on out day there!

This structure was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, and was designed so that the women of the royal household could watch the world outside through all the little windows.

A pretty limited view of the street, but conversely a full view of the City Palace and surrounding land. Hidden away women, watching the processions below.

You enter the complex from a back gate, and through a courtyard, and work your way through tunnel after tunnel to get to the top. It's like wandering through something from a fairytale book.

We ended our hot day of intense exploring with a little interlude into a scene straight out of the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, by making our way to the Rambagh Palace Hotel for a drink at the Polo Bar.

A couple of our group managed to get there early, and had a classy high tea. The rest of us arrived disheveled, hot, sweaty and loud...bloody Aussies! We delighted in the fresh smell of the place, the cleanness, and the air con!

Jaipur and all it's pink. Such a special travel day, to a really beautiful place.

Remembering Gandhi Around India

One of the world's most inspirational figures for peace and change for people in need, is remembered all across India.

We came across him first, in statue form overseeing the Marina Beach in Chennai. This is Gandhi remembered as he lead the Salt March. An instrumental movement of people, which helped shift India to independence.

His powerful form of nonviolent civil disobedience made a difference. He called it "right against might".

We saw him again in Pondicherry, but the most significant places Gandhi is remembered is Delhi.

The Raj Ghat, the ghat where Gandhi was cremated after he was assassinated in 1948, sits within a huge grass area on the banks of the Yanuna River. The walls around it make the memorial a quiet and peaceful place, with the eternal flame burning always.

The Gandhi Smriti, however, was where I learned the most. Free to enter, you can walk along the windows of the room where Mahatma Gandhi lived for this last months. And then you can follow his footsteps, helpfully marked out, on his final walk to prayer - where he was shot dead.

Reading the boards of information along the walk told of the work Gandhi did, and the moments that lead to his death. It's actually done really well, and is very moving.

Behind the house in which he stayed, is an indoor museum which is a multimedia overlay of all the work Gandhi did.

You could spend hours in there, taking in the volumes of information. I spent the time I had stepping through the simple dioramas that stepped through his life, significant event to significant event. Wow, what a life.

One of the boards outside had this quote, which really stayed with me, his India Of My Dreams...

I shall work for an India in which the poorest shall feel that it is their country, in whose making they have an effective voice, an India in which there shall be no high class and low class of people; an India in which all communities shall live in perfect harmony. There can be no room in such an India for the curse of untouchability, or the curse of intoxicating drinks and drugs. Women will enjoy the same rights as men. We shall be at peace with all the rest of the world. This is the India of my dreams.

Gandhi's work is still not yet finished. Keeping working at it, India.

Cricket At Feroz Shah Kotla

Heading to the fourth and final test of our tour around India earlier this year, we could have been forgiven for wishing for the mercy rule. This was not a good tour for the Aussies, and for the Waving The Flag crew, the toll of traveling around India for as long as we had began to be felt. Irritations at our hotel as we checked in had not set the tone right, and the treatment of security at the cricket did nothing to dissipate any of that.

The match was played at Dehli's Feroz Shah Kotla, and the Aussie's lasted just three days before India claimed victory and a clean sweep of the series.

Day 1 had the Aussies batting, and whilst very slow run-making, we seemed to be showing signs of possibility. Ahhh, who am I kidding! Ending the day with a total of 231 with 8 wickets down, all our hopes were pinned on fast bowler Peter Siddle overnight.

We donned our Indian style Chick Pink for Day 2, and watched as the Aussies were bowled out, and then India made our 1st Innings total and then some by the close of the days play. One of the highlights of the day was watching the Little Master bat, and whilst making just 32 (and 1 in the 2nd innings), seeing Tendulkar play in front of his home crowd at our last opportunity was one of those priceless things on tour.

The distinctive stance, the grit and manner, and the fans adoration, was like nothing else. Rumours were all around during the test of when he would announce his retirement, and when it came last week, that he would play his last matches next month in India, it was no surprise. I feel so, so honoured to have seen him play at home in India, in front of his screaming fans! Such an experience.

The crowd did not really impress for this last test of the series, and Day 3 saw the match all wrapped up.

India made swift work of the Aussie's 2nd Innings, in and then all out halfway through the middle session. India set to the task for their 2nd Innings, they had the match won by 6 wickets by the end of the day.

A pretty sad and sorry tour for the Aussies, but nonetheless, the backbone of my 5 weeks of travelling around India. I met so many great people, who joined and became part of the Flag family on tour, and of course, got to tour with some of my favourite people from past tours.

Delhi, Old And New

Getting back to the Indian capital after being up North was a full assault on all senses. The noise, the throngs of people and traffic, the noise, the hassles, the smells, the cramped spaces. This is the India everyone knows.

To get our tourist on in this crazy busy city, we set off on a day tour, in a dreaded tourist bus, but it meant we got to hit up the big things in our day before the cricket started again.

First was the massive and stunning Jama Masjid. The largest and best known mosque in India, it seems to sit right in the heart of Old Delhi. The girls among the group needed to wear a total cover over our bodies, regardless of what we were wearing, and be accompanied by a male at all times.

Regardless of it's gender bias - I need to learn more about this treatment - the working mosque was busy, and so beautiful. We had just a window of time we were allowed in to have a look, before we needed to be out for prayer time.

Dealing with the hot slate ground in the baking sun with our shoes off, we made our way first to the far wall and the chance to catch the views of Delhi from the very top of the far minaret. This gave us a great overview of Old and New Delhi, and of the goings on in the mosque square below us.

The mosque is made of the characteristic red sandstone, and white marble, of the monuments in Agra - built by the same man, Shah Jahan.

Once back out into the street, we were shown to a group of waiting cycling rickshaws, and we were ridden around the tiny laneways of the crazy busy Chandhi Chowk. This was a bustling market with all manner of wares for sale.

The things that caught my eye as we circled around the labyrinth streets were the sari colours, and the jewellery. The colours of the prayer garlands, the fruit, and then the laneways upon laneways of fabric.

Next was Humayun's Tomb, a hidden wonder you will find after walking through broken-down sections of it's wall. Through the impressive archway gate, you will find the temple of Mughal architecture that is said to be the "practice run" before the Taj Mahal in Agra. But also the first instance of Persian style in India.

This tomb was built by a woman, the senior wife of the second Mughal emperor Humayun. Having been to Agra first, the design layout was very similar to the later built Taj, with the water features, the symmetry, and the formal gardens all around.

The tombs of the complex were far more accessible than at the Taj - which is a puzzle, because this monument of love and grief is very impressive also. I for one had never heard of this temple, and yet would have really missed out if we did not get to visit it.

In total contrast, our next stop was the modern and unusual Lotus Temple, or the Bahai House of Worship. A temple of "universal peace and the elimination of prejudice" (according to the Lonely Planet), it reminded me of the gold temple outside of Pondicherry in it's philosophy.

We were informed that visitors are not permitted to make a sound inside, and upon seeing the streams of people going in, we as a group decided we were content with seeing the petal-structure from the road, before keeping on our way for the day.

On our tour around we passed the India Gate several times, however to get a better look a few of us ventured back on our last days in India. The National Monument of India, it houses an eternal flame under it's arches for the Unknown Soldier of War.

The structure is impressive, and sits at the centre of many roads, and rare space in Delhi. But the touts here are relentless.

We did visit the Red Fort, one of the most lauded sights of Delhi, again at the end of our days in India - although after seeing the forts of Agra, and Jaipur, and seeing it's state of run-down, we were actually pretty underwhelmed. Maybe a symptom of our tiredness of India at that point at the end of our trip, but the others that we visited were stunning, well maintained and restored.

Delhi has it all - the hub of activity. The modernity of shops and fast food. The traditional religious sites, and market areas of everyday Indian life. It takes a lot of patience, and you will get lost and ripped off. But it's a place not to be missed!

The Theatre Of The Closing Of The India-Pakistan Border

Watching the pomp and ceremony of the closing of the border gates between India and Pakistan at Wagah, 30kms west of the town of Amristar, is easily one of the most bizarre and surreal experiences on my travels I have witnessed. So much carry on between two nations who have much troubles between them - and yet this harmony of process happens every day at sunset to lower the flags, and shut the gate between them.

We arrived and rushed through the security posts showing our passports for access, before being shown to the Foreigner section of the crowd, and settled in to enjoy the show. We had just made it in time for the action to begin!

Because show is surely the only adequate description - the stadium-style seating on the Indian side was filled with people by the time we got to our spots, and the noise of cheers and singing, was electric.

As far as I could gather, the run down of the half-hour ceremony started with dancing from the crowd, at least on the India side, all cajoled by a very encouraging and flamboyant MC, miked up and full of energy. Once this had reached fever pitch, the Border Security Force started their marching towards the gate. In pairs, with flair and pomp!

The girls in the top picture were first, all stern and assertive, before the blokes got involved, two by two. The final group of five come out in formation, with stomping, high kicks, and an unbelievable military-style...well, dance off, really!

This final five managed to perform their final maneouvers right in front of us, before matching straight for the gates of the border.

I imagine the same was going on on the Pakistani side, although there was less of a crowd, and therefore less noise punctuating each pair of marchers.

Once all officers were gathered in place around the gates, there were exchanges including a hand shake, before both country's flags are lowered in unison at the formal gates behind the crowds, and then a further pair above the gates themselves.

Next, after more stomping and marching, the gates of the border are ceremoniously closed, thereby officially closing the crossing between these two countries for the evening.

The crowd could then spill onto the road where all this marching had happened, our foreign section first, to have a look through the gates, and get a little closer to the officers in uniform. You can see some more of my photos here, and Luke's snaps here on the Waving The Flag Facebook page.
 

What an incredible, surreal, and frankly unbelievable experience! We were all buzzing once we got back to our bus for the journey back to Chandigarh, almost unsure of what exactly we had just witnessed.

The Golden Temple Of Amritsar

Hearing that we were to do an 11 hour bus trip day from Chandigarh to see one of the most beautiful temples in the world loomed as one of our most anticipated days on our India tour - to see the Sikhs' holiest shrines. A really special place to see, and take in.

Once our bus arrived, a little behind schedule, we walked through the bustling streets to get to the entrance, and figured out pretty quickly what we needed to do to enter, respectfully. Each of us needed to cover our heads, and remove our shoes and walk through a foot bath for this very religious site.

Stepping down to the marble walk all along the holy water tank and drinking in the stunning view of this temple square was breathtaking. So beautiful, and unique. A feeling of peace, and a hustle of prayer, reverence, with the contrast of the chants and songs of prayer broadcast constantly floating across the complex.

Given the eventual timing of our trip, and the plan for the whole day, many of us used the time of our visit to this special place by wandering around this holy pool, and taking in the view, the feeling and the significance of the site. Observing families in prayer, and visiting this most important temple to them, was incredible, and a lesson in a religion that I know little about.

One of the other features of the Golden Temple - and one which Fi and Dave made a concerted effort to experience in our short visit - is the meal served every day to 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims and visitors alike. The notion that the Sikh's invite one and all to eat together, as a mark of unity, to people of all religions, creeds and nationalities, is a beautiful idea, and surely one the notion of religion should be about.

This special visit drew the envy of so many people for the rest of our time in India, and will always be etched in our groups' collective memories as an amazing moment of our travels, and a powerful lesson in the people, peace and humanitarianism of the world.

Cricket In Mohali - 3rd Test In India

So, while we were wandering around Agra seeing the sights like the Taj Mahal, the Australian Cricket Team were meant to submit some homework - reportedly a review about how each of them thought the team could improve. Four of them didn't complete it, and in a stunning move, were suspended from playing in the next test, including a couple who we expected to be a chance to be called up, and also the Vice Captain.

"Homework-gate" gave significant weight to the talk on tour about the issues of culture within the Aussie Team. The apparent divide between the playing group, the personalities, and suspected feuds. The shock of the suspension though, was big. How ridiculous! Especially how badly the team was going with a full squad to pick from!

After all the controversy of the build up, we woke on the morning to Day 1....to rain! Which did not go away for the whole day. A forced travel rest day in the end, as we all waited back at the hotel for any positive news about a possible start of play. But eventually it was called off for the day, with no play at all. A very much needed day of rest, a total bonus, after all the travel so far. It meant we got to explore the Section 17 area of Chandigarh, the shops and the buzz of people and life!

Day 2 we got the chance to head across town to the suburb of Mohali, to the Punjab Cricket Association Stadium. Convincing auto rickshaws to go that far was a bit of work, and we certainly didn't know if they were going the wrong or the long way, but we all managed to make it there in the end!

The Aussie's won the toss, and set out to make a good day of batting. Luke presenting the Flaggy Greens to the new Waving The Flag tour members, and we took our seats for some cricket.

Runs from Cowan, Warner and Smith had us a little happier at the end of the days play, finding a pub across the road from our hotel with very cheap beer! (No girl's loo though...ahhh, you can't have it all!)

We chose Day 3 to be our Chick Pink Day, and upped the ante with our India-styled tunics bought from a women's stored in Section 17. Getting them was quite the experience for us, and getting treated a little more favourably by the security staff on the gate when we were dressed like this, made it all the more fun.

Our attire for the day also started many conversations with the locals. I could not resist getting a photo with this gent on our pink day, given his gorgeous turban! He enjoyed the chat, and had been to Melbourne before, so we had much chatter to fill a few overs of time with!

The Aussies batted on till just before Lunch, posting 408. Then the Indians were in, and we watched debutante Dhawan pile on the runs to finish the day on an impressive 185!

St Patrick's Day fell on Day 4, and also Trish's birthday, which promised to be a fun day. After downloading a picture of a shamrock onto my photo in the morning, I commissioned one of the lads always eager to paint our faces with India flags to try his best. A green shamrock on my cheek, to be sure!

Luck, and tons of skill, was with the Indians again on this day on the field, and the runs kept coming. They finally succumbed to our bowling efforts well into the last session, making 499. Effective dashing all hope for the match for the Aussies.

We found a bar with a kangaroo as the logo that night, and had many beers, toasting the birthday Sheila.

The last day was a forgettable one for the Australians, losing our remaining 7 wickets, and then we watched as the Indian batsman made the winning 136 runs - a win by 6 wickets.

The most entertaining part of our time in the stands was to watch the Number 1 Indian Fan, and his little copiers/followers. All painted, loud and mouthy, these three kids kept us pretty distracted from the carnage that was going on out in the middle.