Friday, November 07, 2014

The Plight Of The Rohingya - Travelers' Blindness In Myanmar

When I first started working with, and hearing the stories, of people who identify as Rohingyan, I naively and boldly talked about visiting Myanmar in a hope to work on rapport building and story sharing. I had been to Myanmar, and surely my travels could help me relate, right?

I'll admit, I knew nothing of the Rohingya people when I first started working with asylum seekers. They are a Muslim minority in Myanmar, and Bangladesh, Saudia Arabia and Malaysia (also in Pakistan and Thailand). They are some of the most extremely persecuted people in the world, and tell the most harrowing, trauma-filled stories of their experiences I have ever come across in all my time working in mental health, PTSD, trauma, and international development.

But as many of my clients pointed out, the Myanmar I saw when I traveled, and anyone on the fairly recently opened-to-the-world tourism circuit around this South-East Asian country, was very, very different to the one they know.

The Rakhine state, and Maungdaw is certainly not on the loop which includes Yangon and Bagan for the new wave of tourists.

The origins of the Rohingya people are even disputed in this politicised lawlessness against them, with some believing they are indigenous to the state of Rakhine, the government of Myanmar arguing that they are Bengali. They are a people from very basic villages, and primarily live off farming. They do not have a written language, and thus, one of the cultural groups around the world who rely on oral history.

They live in a state of Statelessness - meaning they are not recognised by the very country they were born in, and should have basic rights in. The right to have official identification papers, the right to having their education acknowledged formally, the right to having their marriages or land ownership documented. None of that.

Attacked by the radical Buddhist minority in Myanmar, with an increase in violence which has included the burning of villages since 2012. Rohingyans are prevented from attending school, and threatened when going to work. Men and boys are being arrested, held, without charge, and often without their families knowing of their whereabouts. The Rohingyans were asked to register as Bengali in the country of Myanmar by the government in March this year, disallowing them the opportunity to participate in the country's first census. Further restrictions are being placed on them even now, and the world just don't seem to know, or pay attention, about it all.

The buzz about Myanmar, and the hopes for democracy and change and the upcoming national election in 2015, with the golden hope of Aung San Suu Kyi becoming leader, will not help the Rohingya. She has a battle on her hands getting elected, and has seemed to think standing up for this minority too dangerous to her own plight.

The UN has just launched a Campaign to End Statelessness, perhaps another new angle of hope in this dire struggle for recognition, safety and a life without the fear of persecution.

I continue to learn so much from my clients, and this small window into their plight has been such an eye-opener - travel gave me none of this insight. As an Australian, it's hard to comprehend the experiences of Statelessness and ongoing and pervasive experiences of persecution.

*This post is part of a series joining my travels with the lessons and stories I have come across in my work. Much of my travel has helped me understand different issues faced by my client group, and then many of my client's stories and experiences now shape my understanding of the world as I move through it. I wanted to share some of these points, to help others start to get this insight. These points are by no means a comprehensive thesis about the issues for each cultural group discussed - merely a starting point of thought and hopefully an antecedent to further reading and research, to gain an understanding for readers.

These photos were taken on my trek through the hillside villages to Kalaw - maybe as rural and basic, albeit Buddhist, as a tourist usually sees when traveling to Myanmar.

Thursday, November 06, 2014

Visions Of Nauru - The Scrap Pile



These are photos hastily taken on the road leading out of my place of work in Nauru. It's the scrap metal disposal point of the island, apparently, just outside of the actual rubbish tip on the road to the Centre, and changes every time we pass it to go in and out.


These twisted and mangled cars, and random household appliances are surreal to see - a strange and unintentional art installation of the nation.


New pieces get dumped there all the tip - and deteriorate in condition over weeks and months. The bus below started out banged up and broken, albeit one I have never seen in circulation, but is now unrecognisable. 


Each visit to the island for me often starts with a look at this display, giving new gems of metal mess and an update of the state of some of the prime pieces of the metal yard strip!

Wednesday, November 05, 2014

Nugu Beach Resort Getaway

We'll take a banana boat, they said. It'll be lovely and calm early in the morning, they said. I think they even told me it would be about a 40 minute trip at that hour in the morning when we planned to leave. I blindly went along with it, trusting two of my favourite people in the world who I was visiting in the Solomon Islands, and whom had been to this little island getaway they were taking me to, many times before.


The little boat was loaded with the five of us going away for the weekend, plus a puppy who was coming along too, around 8am, plus our supplies for snacking and drinking, and we were good to go. We could see islands on the horizon, and the water looked calm.....

It didn't take long for the Iron Bottom Sound off Guadalcanal to get to be open-ocean like, and choppy. The wind picked up, which bounced waves directly into the boat, and it wasn't long before I was soaked, and hanging on for dear life!

Willing it to end, realising that we were well past 40 minutes travel in these conditions, and completely unsure where we were actually headed, I started to will on my fear of drowning. At least the spray whipping on my face would end then! Ha!

End it did, finally, and we reached Nugu Beach Resort, which is on Buena Vista Island, part of the Florida Island group. A beach in an inlet, with stunning blue water, a private beach, no people around. Perfect getaway from the world!

The accommodation was basic, with 4 huts available to rent. Having the place to ourselves, I had one to myself. Mosquito nets and fans (available until the power generator stops each night), shared bathroom. Simple, real, and all you really need.

We relaxed. We swam. We drank. We ate. We went snorkelling, and I even spotted Nemo and his parents swimming around, just off to the right of our beach edge set up. So easy. And so pretty - coral and fish life.

The staff were another highlight of the Resort. Around when you needed them, but otherwise we were left to ourselves. Each evening, as was our group's request, we were served a three course meal - soaps, amazing curries, and then fruits for dessert. Dining on the deck of the Resort, and all talking and drinking into the night. This was a really lovely getaway.


The couple of nights away were so tranquil and relaxing, I had all but forgotten about the horror of the trip over, to the point that I willingly got in the boat again to get back to Honiara when the time came. We even saw a whale out in the water, as well as an amazing sunrise, that morning.

I have recently heard my friends recount this experience of taking me in the banana boat, and how rough it was, and how hit with the ocean I was in the seat in the boat - it's a just a funny travel memory and story now...but make sure that ride is ok for you when you go across. I made it through ok, with not too much trauma, and had a gorgeous weekend away.


jouljet Notes:
Serious Tip: Check the weather, and just prepare yourself for the trip in the open sea - but it's an adventure, and worth it for the time on such a remote beach!
Time Spent: 2 nights, with an early morning both at either end of our weekend.
Cost: Eeek, I actually don't know! It was all organised by my friends - you can check out contact details through this page here.
Quirky Tip: Make sure you go for a wander along the ocean edge, all the way into the village. The kids showed me around, and I got a glimpse into village life - a post coming up on the blog.

Tuesday, November 04, 2014

The Look! Jess' Bitching Hen's Party

Celebrating my sister's upcoming nuptials with fluro dance gear, Roxette's The Look and the energy, crazy moves and feminist empowerment of the Real Hot Bitches 80s Dance Troupe could not have been more perfect!


I had actually just arrived back into the country off a flight the morning of, and after a fast power nap, arrived at Jessie's to see what my outfit contained, and join the party. The girls were well into the final stages of getting ready, champagne flowing.

We taxied over to a dance studio in Brunswick, and managed another quick drink across the road at a pub, given we had a click of time before it was our turn with the Bitches! Many of the other girls joined, dressed to the max in their best 80s dance gear, which was hilarious with every arrival.


Once into the studio, the Real Hot Bitches introduced themselves, their moves, and then proceeded to show us the moves they had put together for us our and our session - to an iconically Jessie song, The Look.

The three Bitches then taught us the moves, in totally manageable chunks, and with maximum encouragement for self expression, moves to channel that 80s love of cheesiness, and silliness. They were hilarious, and such fun!

Many of the girls managed this whole session, which was a couple of hours of dance, without a prior drink, which was even more impressive. We danced, learned each new sequence, then put it together again. The moves lined up with the song perfectly. So funny.

The final piece of the session was to perform the whole song for half of the group, allowing us all to see the final product too.


Spilling out into the street on an incredible high, and laughing all the way, we then headed to Brunswick Street for drinks, a Greek feast, and dancing. A seriously fun night!

Monday, November 03, 2014

The Caryatids Of The Acropolis


These aren't the real ones - they are standing, preserved, just down the hill from the Acropolis in the new Acropolis Museum (and one is still held in the British Museum....), but these replica beautiful ladies holding up the roof of porch on the Erechtheion are still breathtaking. They face the impressive Parthenon remains, and captured my attention for much of my time on the hill.

Sunday, November 02, 2014

Honiara's Japanese WWII Memorial

Another Pacific island nation to have some significant role in World War II because of it's position in the ocean, and thus, being in the middle of things around the Japanese assault, was the Solomon Islands.

The Japanese War Memorial is up in the hills from Honiara, on Mount Austen, and is tricky to find, but worth the attempt.

When we arrived there, after taking a few wrong turns, we found that it was closed - but managed to catch someone's attention near by, and it was opened for us to go in and have a look.


It's simple, beautiful, and commands such a feeling of peace. No war symbols, no graphic reminders of death and battle. No long list of names.

The plaque on one of the side of the marble structure in the centre speaks of the idea that the upward feature of the standing marble should assist the final journey of the spirits of those lost.

Saturday, November 01, 2014

How A Travel Destination Becomes A Plan - Taiwan Is Next, For Example

"Do you just blindfold yourself in front of a map, and point!?!" was the reaction of a good mate this week when he asked about my next travels. I am headed to Taiwan next week for 10 days, after having the idea grow on me as a place to visit...and then I had some time available for another trip. Why not!?

Usually a potential travel destination comes up from someone else's travel photos or stories I hear or see. And then often, once a place has popped up as a vague idea like this, it seems to come up in so many other places - blog posts, news stories, mentions by someone else. The power of persistent suggestion works for me! Riga and Iceland and two other such places that have persisted now for awhile - just have to get to that side of the world again!

As an idea plants itself, my next steps are usually visual - Google Image for one, is an inspiration tool for me. If I see enough places of interest to fill a week or so of exploring, the travel idea grows legs. In this case, the mix of modernity and old Chinese culture appealed with such a search.

Many of the photos online look like a cross between China and Japan - the temples, and city sights, and the food! I loved going to
both those countries!

Seriously, Google Image is to blame for many of my travel ideas. The developing plan to try and get to the Marshall Islands early next year is another such example.

Taiwan will be a new country for me, which is always an exciting prospect, so the plan solidified around a period of time I needed to take off work around the coming family wedding.

So once the Taiwan plan was hatched, I did some cursory research about flights, and about how to get around the country. I did some more research via Twitter, and the travel blogger resources posted there for everywhere.

Quirky and beautiful is usually what I am after, with some iconic country sights, plus some interesting places. Posts about the Toilet Themed Restaurant and other such bizarre dining experiences, the Cat Village, a town all about Paper Umbrellas, the idea of the Museum of World Religions has sparked my interest, as has the stunning sights within the Taroko National Park down the East coast. Then the vibrant street art examples found in Taipei had me booking those flights!

I then bought a Lonely Planet, and read this on the flight to work last rotation, to get an idea of where I might want to go, and how long to stay at each point. I don't always buy or take a guidebook, but often find it helpful to have an overview of places, as starting points. Plus, it's great to have a pocket of information about what you are looking at with you already when you are travelling. Key considerations for me are travel options for around the country, to allow me to see both city and countryside in the time I have - and based on my reading, it seems the super fast train will be perfect for this. I also want to be sure that I can see most of the things that my research has pointed me to - I hate leaving things or wants not done, or not able to be attempted!

After just visiting the tallest building in the world in Dubai, I am still pretty keen to see the unique looking Taipei 101, which used to hold that title. It looks pretty amazing at sunset, from Elephant Hill, I have read and seen. Plus there are an host of temples around Taipei to check out. The Night Markets for food have been noted almost everywhere as something not to miss.

I fly off later this week, and am very much looking forward to it!


jouljet's questions
How does a new travel destination become a plan for you?
Do you have any Taiwan tips for me for the coming weeks?
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