As we moved on the train from Agra through to Delhi and then on to the train to Chandigarh, there was a noticeable shift. The landscape became more rural, less built up. The air became lighter, cleaner, and cooler. And the increasing presence of the enchanting and colourful turbans meant we were entering the land of the Sikhs.
Our hours on the train whittled away, punctuated with regular station stops, and chai wallahs and samosa sellers walking through selling their wares.