Train Travel From Agra

As we moved on the train from Agra through to Delhi and then on to the train to Chandigarh, there was a noticeable shift. The landscape became more rural, less built up. The air became lighter, cleaner, and cooler. And the increasing presence of the enchanting and colourful turbans meant we were entering the land of the Sikhs.

Our hours on the train whittled away, punctuated with regular station stops, and chai wallahs and samosa sellers walking through selling their wares.

The Death Railway And Hellfire Pass

Riding the railway from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok, as far as the rail goes now, is a sombering experience. I love travelling on a train, but everytime I felt myself get carried away with the clack of the tracks and the gentle rocking of the rickety carriage, I reminded myself of the sacrifices made to lay these very tracks down.

The train rolls across the bridge over Mae Klong River - made into the River Kwai by Hollywood and the movie of the same name, and then heads away from town through the countryside.

It soon glides over a Viaduct, on the edge of a mountain, and the wonder of how these POWs built this section returns.

They say that for every railway sleeper on this track, there was a POW death on the construction process.

We rode the train for 2 hours, before disembarking and then getting a driver to take us to the section referred to as Hellfire Pass, 18 kms away. The Museum here is managed by the Australian Department of Veteran Affairs, Office of War Graves, and it very well done. After walking through the rooms of information, we walked the paths to get down to the cutting that the Aussies named after the vision of themselves in the lighting in the cutting as they were forced to work long into the night, starved and emaciated, resembling scenes from hell.

The cutting is 25 metres deep at it's highest point, and was cut with the most rudimentary tools. Without even considering the state of the men forced to complete such work, this feat is incredible.

This is also the place where Sir 'Weary' Dunlop's ashes were spread, as a plaque reminded me as we got down to the track level of the pass.

Such an important part of Australian and Aussie Digger history, in addition to the other Allied and Asian labourers lost in this piece of WWII. A very important place to visit, and learn about.




Getting back to Kanchanaburi, Dave and I had our driver drop us back at the Bridge, and we had a very late lunch at one of the floating restaurants so we could take in the sunset colours highlighting the view. We even caught sight of a train crossing over, scattering the hordes of tourists getting their movie photos.

Train Travel In Cambodia

Discovering train travel in Battambang on a return trip in 2004, found two very different forms and experiences, and a very authentic-feeling experience in rural Cambodia.

The bamboo train was the most memorable, and most quirky, mode of transport I have ever taken. We rode it for a short distance, after taking some motos (motorbikes with a driver) for a tour around the countryside around Battambang. The bamboo train is essentially a platform on wheels that travel on the railway tracks, and powered by the smallest of motors.

Given that it is one of the rural resident’s usual modes of travel, we shared our two platforms with local farmers, chickens, and other locals moving in the area.

The bamboo train shared the single track with the regular train, but also travels in either direction. When traveling along encountering another bamboo train coming in the other direction is the norm, and the point of the most bizarre experience.

Upon meeting up with another bamboo train coming the other way, it is determined which is the heaviest of the two, and then both sets of travellers set about taking the lighter of the bamboo train platform and all it’s cargo off the track. The heavier bamboo train is then able to pass by, and the lighter bamboo train is lifted back onto the tracks, with all the things it was carrying, to continue on it’s way.

After recovering from the longest laughing session and that bamboo train experience, we caught an actual train to our next destination, in another very local experience. The hard wooden seats, and the very open carriages, it was an authentic way to take in the countryside going past. We were also offered all sorts of food and treats from the locals, and lost a couple of our seats at one point when a very large haul of pineapples were loaded on at one stop. The hammocks on board, however, more than made up for this!

These travels were part of an alternative trip from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, which included a boat across the Tonle Sap Lake, then overland and train travel through Pursat and Battambang - worth trying if you have the time, for a different view of the country.

This post is part of a series marking 10 years since I travelled to Cambodia to work as a volunteer. These photos, and memories, are actually from a return trip in 2004.

The Ghan, Katherine Gorge and Uluru

The Red Centre, Uluru and travelling on the Ghan was something that I had longed to do, the more I got the taste of travel. Given that Australia has such a vast array of travel experiences at our doorstep, it's pretty remiss that so many of us have yet to see our own backyard.

This is a trip that I completed in August in maybe 2004, and I started it by flying up to Darwin to visit Braiden and Paul. After a few nights hanging out with them, I then boarded The Ghan, the great train journey from the top of Australia and through the middle. On arrival I found that there had been a mix-up with my booking and as a consequence I was given a twin Red Seater cabin all to myself, which meant a sleeper instead on the planned seat I had booked. Bonus! This meant that I had someone come and convert the little space with a bed, after being able to take in the passing Northern Territory from the window in blissful peace.

Leaving Darwin in the morning, the train made a lunchtime stop at Katherine, where I disembarked and joined a cruise in the beautiful Katherine Gorge, which was all arranged from the train.

Back on the train for the overnight portion, we arrived in Alice Springs in the morning where I joined a camping tour for a couple of days, to see Uluru and Kings Canyon. This wasn't hard core camping, but in luxury established tents, shower blocks, and with meals provided.

I had long decided that I would not climb the rock, in respect for our Indigenous brothers and sisters and their beliefs about the sacredness of this big stone in the middle of our country. As we reached the Uluru area we first visited the Cultural Centre, which highlighted this importance, but also provided further background to my rudimentary school-provided overview of Indigenous Australian culture and customs.

I walked around the circumference of Uluru, which was such a magical experience. The colours, the shadows, the quiet, and the feeling of being connected to the land and nature was so strong. The different personalities of the rock with each arc was surprising, and only reinforced the significance of this place to our country and to our Indigenous people. So beautiful.

Galle to Colombo

Having Day 5 off following the Aussie test win, meant that I had one more half day on Unawatuna beach before I needed to make my way to the airport and home.  Just a cheeky week in Sri Lanka, working in with lack of leave and uni, this trip was oh so easy.  And a perfect little escape from real life.

I had breakfast with Ken and Al, and then after a swim with Lisby, I wandered down to the beach and the Happy Banana with Fi, Dave, and Michael.  Joining Belinda, Jess, Laura, Wendy and Sam for a couple of cocktails, and lunch, soaking in the sun was perfect, before saying goodbye to the crew and heading off.

Catching the public bus from the top of the road from the Unawatuna Beach Resort, with a final goodbye to Fi and Dave, I travelled into Galle to figure out how to get to Colombo for my 1.10am flight that night.  Now I had thought that the train along the coast would have been the best way to travel, and having remembered my last train travel in Sri Lanka, I was keen for a repeat - but alas, track works for 6 months, commencing just 2 days beforehand, meant I needed to rethink.

I asked at the Railway Station for the town where the tracks would be functional again down the line, and after being accosted by a local trying to find a deal for me and my travels, and a cut for him I'm sure, I simply joined the line for the local bus and grabbed a seat.  Easy, and a whole 66Rs!  Although, once the bus pulled out of the station, it stopped a couple of times to fill all the spaces, and was soon filled as much as a bus can be filled with people!  Jammers!

The bus followed the train tracks for the most part, so this was almost as good.  The best part of the trip was that as the people thinned, jumping off at various towns along the way, I started to glimpse the ocean from the other side of the bus.  And then the sun started to set into the water, which was just gorgeous!  This was exactly what I was wanting out of this trip. 

I jumped off at Aluthgam, as advised, and found the Railway Station, only to find the last train had been an hour and a half ago.  Oh well!  I did catch some overs of a local cricket game going on next to the Station, as I took a backpack break.

Back to the main road, I hailed another local bus, and for another 60Rs, was on my way to Colombo.  Having not done this sort of solo, local and ride-by-the-seat-of-your-pants travel for such a long time, I was buoyed by the fact that I could do it, by myself, again.  So excited that I am not too old and cranky for it, and it has fueled that travel bug just a little more!


Getting into Colombo in the dark, I then got a tuk tuk to the Galle Face Hotel, for a cocktail and a light dinner.  Sitting there coated in the dust and sweat of the public bus, I was sure I stuck out over looking the ocean, but I was loving it.  I then did a quick change in the loo, ready for my flights, and made my way to the airport for my flights home.

Landing in Singapore, I checked out the Butterfly Garden, and the fish ponds of Terminal 3, being a massive sensory overload.  Getting to Melbourne on Monday night, and having Jessie pick me up, I was all set to attend my first day on Semester 2 of uni the next day!

Belfast

On the Tuesday of my week in Ireland, I decided that I would pop up to Northern Ireland to see Belfast as a day trip. I caught the train early from Wicklow, with the ticket seller insisting that I wait till Dublin to buy the onward portion, to save some euro. Two hours from Dublin, I arrived in Belfast's main train station, to find myself in the UK, with road signs in miles, and using Pound again.

A rainy day, as I walked around the grand City Hall building I was accosted by a tout selling tickets for the City Sightseeing Hop On-Hop Off tourist bus, and given the weather, jumped at it as the price fell in negotiations.

Taking the small group on the bus past the leaning Albert Memorial Clock, we then went along the riverfront, to the Titanic Quarter, having the dock where she launched pointed out. The bus then went out to the grounds of Stormont Estate, which was quite impressive.

Back through the city centre, the bus then took us out to the North Western areas of town, where 'The Troubles' occured, and an undercurrent still exists between Protestant and Catholic sides. This gave me a good overview of what all this is about, and pointed out many key spots, including many of the murals and the wall between the Shankill and Falls areas.

After getting off the bus, I walked along to one of the sights they had pointed out, being The Cathedral Church of Saint Anne. This captured my attention because of the large steel spire which seemed to be skewered into the roof, and through to where the alter would be. Walking in I took in the military reverence of the much of the chapel, including a stained glass window outlining the fourth stanza of the Ode to Remembrance. I read about the Spire of Hope, placed into the roof of this church dedicated to 'Nine 11' and the messages of hope and peace in relation to much of the world's conflicts.

Seeking a much more personalised, and on the ground look at the areas of 'The Troubles', I put a call in to the Black Taxi Tours, which I had had a recommendation about, and had found in one of the guide books I had picked up. My your picked me up from where I was, in his black cab, and took me back to the murals and trouble areas, but with a much more individualised and personal tour, explaination, and the chance to ask questions. This was really worthwhile, from a local's perspective and experience, and a more intimate look at the art around the areas, the monuments and memorials to different clashes and protests, and the significance of these sentiments today.

The Train To China

Another massive night, this time after all swearing we would have an early night after the final night in the Ger, put the success of catching our train in jeopardy, but MG somehow got us there in time. Dancing to totally random Mongolian pop and techo music in the bar at the front of our hotel, after being booted out the back door from one of the many Irish bars, we all seemed to get very carried away. Such fun!

A whole lot of napping started out this leg of our train trip from Mongolia to China, before we came to darkness with the timezones and the sheer distance covered. This also meant that the true Gobi Desert passed us by in darkness, which is a shame. The border crossing this time consisted of passport checks, but also a wheel change for the whole train...while we were on it.

Quite a bit of shunting around, and waiting, our carriage was eventually rolled into a shed where we where lifted up, and the wheels below were replaced with a different size, to fit the Chinese rail lines. It was quite bizarre seeing the section of train next to us being raised, or merely being noticeably lower than us when we were raised, with travellers that we had met waving to us from that disconnected part of the train.

A few rounds of vodka shots, our last of the Chinggis batch, saw out Mongolia for us.

Not thinking we were being inconsiderately loud this night, and given the fact that we were being displaced onto a new set of wheels at midnight, and therefore everyone was still up and about for the experience, we were totally bemused by the group of French tourists in our carriage waking at some ungodly hour and singing hymns (or something) at the top of their voices, imitating our group's laughs and voices, before they got off the train a few stops before us. The French are funny buggers, aren't they!

This leg of the trip was actually the least local mingling of the train trip, with large groups around our 2 allocated cabins this time. Nevertheless, we were excited to wake in a new country, ready to explore a new city.

*This post was meant to be published yesterday for NaBloPoMo, but no chance to be anywhere near a computer! NaBloPoMo fail!

The Trans-Mongolian Railway

Back on the train for a couple of days, we rode through more of the Siberian countryside, with villages and towns passing the carriage windows. More vodka, more hanging out in the cabins, more meeting fellow travelers, and catching up with the Spaniards we had meet on the last train. The toughest part of this couple of days was the 8 hour wait at the border between Russia and Mongolia...where nothing happened for 7.5 hours. Then there was train shunting with some of us on the train, and a couple of us watching from the platform.....and then the searches and passport checks by the very serious officials, and we were on our way. We then traveled the 30kms to the next town, inside the border of Mongolia....and waited, and then went through the same checks.

When we reached Ulaanbaatar, we were met by our awesome Vodka Train Honcho, MG. She took us to check in and shower, and then led us through the city to have breakfast and visit the Megjid Janraisig temples. Here we wandered through the complex, with included a walk through one temple in action, with monks chanting and drums sounding. Was surreal!

Catching public buses through the bustling city, we then visited the Zaisan Memorial, which gave us the most amazing view of the sprawling city below us, and the vast expanse to the horizon.









MG then took us to the Mongolian BBQ restaurant for an all-you-can eat, which ended up being a physical challenge for some of the group. Speaking of being uncomfortable, we were later taken to a theatre show of some traditional Mongolian dance, and one very disturbing display by a young female contortionist. Ouch!

The evening consisted of taking in the World Cup, in a massive 'Cup Land' set up in the forecourt of an Irish pub. We managed to have a great night for the 2 matches that didn't matter to us, and met the Vodka Train group who were travelling in the other direction. Then the Aussie game was on, against Germany, and we discovered that half of Mongolia had actually completed their studies in German universities, and thus, had a very loud affinity with the nation. Belinda and I seemed to be the only pair of Aussies in the pub at the start, and as the early hours ticked over, and the score line grew more and more grim, we called it a night.

Lake Biakal and Irkutsk

Waking early in the morning on the train, in the middle of Russia, our cabin was soon made aware that Mark was in a panic in the cabin next door, looking for his bag which contained all the important things, wallet, camera, passport. Passport! In Russia! Where you practically have to show documents to go to the bathroom! A sickening feeling seeped into the group, as we searched everywhere in both cabins, with no luck.

Meeting our Honcho on the platform, Costa was about to work the hardest day hanging out with tour groups for Vodka Train ever! After Costa talked to the Provodnitsa , he helped the rest of us register our arrival in that part of the world, and it was decided we would travel by bus to our destination for the next couple of days, while he and Mark dealt with things in town.

The mini-bus took us to Listvyanka, on the banks of Lake Biakal. At the end of the journey there, we were confronted with the large in-land water mass, and snow-capped mountains on it’s far shore. Breathtaking!

Having not had a shower for 4 days, and being cooped up in the confines of the train, the rest of us agreed that whilst it probably wasn’t really (the one at the Moscow hostel may well be, for all time), the shower in our villa in the mountains was the best ever! While wondering whether Mark and Costa were having any luck, and what the options may be, the rest of us went for a wander along the shore of the lake, taking in the crisp, fresh air. Sampling the wares at the little market, we then stopped for a couple of beers along the little bars on the shore.

Initially there were talks that Mark would have to fly back to Moscow to get a replacement passport, and then the idea that he would not be able to fly without sufficient ID implied that a return trip on the train we had all just got off, was on the cards. A very tense afternoon ended with Costa and Mark arriving at our villa, with the bizarre news that his passport had been found with a bunch of others from the train, with an apprehended thief further down the train line. Mark is one lucky Irishman! Costa treated us to a Russian sauna then, and a thankful group dinner allowed the group to debrief on the day.

The following day, Costa took us for a hike up one of the lower mountains, to give us a view of the Lake. A chairlift assisted us for the top portion, where we found the Lake and the mountains creating a postcard in front of us. Some of us ventured for more climbing, and a swim in the ice-cold Lake, while the rest of us returned to the string of beer venders along the shore.

The next day we loaded the mini-bus again, and farewelled the fresh air and view, and returned to the city that we started from, being Irkutsk. Here several of us made our matroyska purchases, before walked around seeing the sights of the city, while marvelling at the cute, cute little Russian houses. This included a tour through the house of The Decembrists, young revolutionary uprisers in their day, which caught my attention in the guide book due to the American band of the same name. Costa assured us that there would be English translations in the house, but really we came out of there non-the-wiser about this infamous group of Russians.


Final drinks at a bar, and then preparations for our next train journey, were our final tasks of this stop in the middle of Siberia, before Costa deposited us into another set of cabins on the Trans-Mongolian Railway.

The Trans-Siberian Railway

Amazingly, we all made the train the following morning after our big night out. Marina got us and all our gear to the station in time for our early morning departure - ready for 4 days on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Armed with dehydrated foods, other random snacks, some very expensive packets of pistachios, and bottles of vodka, we had no real idea what this journey would be like. Allocated 2 cabins for the 7 of us on our Vodka Train tour, we settled into some patterns fairly easily - a lot of chatter, banter, sharing of stories within our group. Games, tunes, some reading (not much, I think only one of us actually finished a book!), and then, by mid-afternoons....vodka!

Our group, and a group of Spaniards, and another group of Portuguese, were the only non-locals on our carriage. This train carries the Russians from town to town as part of their everyday - and thus, this was real life. Walking from the front of the train where the open space carriages were, I saw families, couples, settling in for the journey to their destinations.

Back on our carriage, Jonesey introduced us to the locals, after initially thinking his attempt at a Russian good morning went unheard. He was invited into a cabin for drinks with a group of Russian strangers next door, including a Russian solider traveling days to see his family in the middle of Russia during his break.

The pace of vodka, beer, vodka, beer soon made this second afternoon on the train turn into one of the best times of the whole trip. The non-verbal/attempted verbal exchanges, the food exchanges, and the general humanity of having drinks with locals and our group in a shared space, was amazing and one of the most unique experiences I can imagine. This night, our little party on our carriage and in our cabins, and the interactions with the locals, was the very essence of this long dreamed trip across Russia.

Jonesy had become an expert in figuring out the timetable, in terms of stops and how long they would be. This allowed us to jump off and wander the platform, and usually buy some random food morsels from the local sellers. Saved us from the options of noodles, or instant mash. Needless to say, I don't think any of us will eat 2-minute noodles again for sometime! The first discovery of the 5 litre, cold bottles of beer sold at some stops was a hit!

With Russian countryside, towns and cities, farm land, and village life passing by our windows, we took it in, we got to know each other in these small living spaces, and figured out how to pass such extended travel time.

We definitely shocked our Provodnitsa on the final night, when she investigated the noise coming from our cabin, only to find 11 people in there. We were playing an international version of celebrity head, sharing around several bottles of the 5lt Bag Bier...and weren't anywhere near as loud as the previous nights!

Our lowest point on the train was probably when the group had studied the timetable, and put together that we were not in fact getting off at our next destination the next day as we had thought, but actually the following morning. But regardless of the no showers, no space, and the random encounters along these 4 days, this experience was one of the best things I have done.

Moscow

Waking in Moscow after the night journey, we were greeted by the beautiful Marina at the train station. Taken back to our best hostel of the trip, Godzillas, we freshened up, before heading out to have breakfast, and then taking to this new city.

We wandered around the city on foot, making our way to the much anticipated Red Square. Was pretty exciting to be walking through the arch of Voskresensky Gate to this iconic sight, not fully knowing what to expect. The resplendent St Basil's, the wall of the Kremlin, and the vast space in front of them creating the square, were so amazing to take in.

The group of us explored the inside of St Basil's, with it's tiny towers and alter spaces, before we wandered past the river to get a look at the Square from the other end. We had lunch in back in the building on the east of the Square, which used to be the Upper Trading Rows, now the over-abundant GUM Department Store.

Marina then took us on the metro, through the crazily ornate and over-the-top stations, to Moscow State University on the Vorobyovy Gory. This building is massive, and is one of Stalin's Seven Sisters of the city - but it is also atop a hill overlooking the city sprawl.

The next day we explored the inside buildings of the Kremlin, which, for a country where religion was removed, has a bucketload of churches! The gold and silver inside these walls are gorgeous (see to the right), but excessive!

We then had Japanese for lunch, and walked through the financial, shopping mall area of the city, before reaching the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Destroyed and replaced by a swimming pool following the fall of the Soviet Union, this beautiful Russian Orthodox Church has been rebuilt since 1990 - and, in fact, as we walked through the lower levels, there were still painters there adding to the murals.

Preparing for our train trip the next day, before getting ready for a big night out, was an adventure itself in the supermarket, navigating between Russian script, random pictures on things, and some of us not paying much attention to prices. Dinner and drinks, Marina and a host of other Vodka Train Honchos joined us, and managed to include a magical walk through Red Square, before we reached an area of pubs and bars.

A massive night out, starting with vodka shots, and then endless dancing with the very enthusiastic Russians. The mainly student population in the pub Belinda and I spent the most time, were so very friendly, and such fun. Dancing to songs we haven't heard out for years, interspersed with random Russian pop, we all had such a great night!

St Petes

We left Prague, and caught a Russian flight to St Petersburg. Instantly discovering the Russian script and signs, and lack of English a challenge, we figured out a bus to get from the airport to the city...but if it wasn't for a hot Dutch man on that bus who help us find the next steps, I suspect Jess, Belinda and I would still be lost somewhere on the transport system!

After wandering around lost for a bit more from the metro station, we eventually found our hostel, tucked away in courtyard with no markings. Here we discovered that our group as part of Vodka Train had left for a cruise on the river, since of flight was later than the official tour started. We followed the map left by Lera, our Honcho in St Petersburg, but just missed the cruise the rest of the group were on. To fill time until their return, we purchased some beers and nibbles, and park along the river. And this is how our tour group with whom we would be traveling for the next 3 weeks found us - beers in hand, sitting in the gutter, taking in this new city. We set the bar high to start with!

Once the 3 Irishmen and our Pompy ranga Pom were introduced, we then found a pub and had a night of getting to know the group, and asking Lera about her city. Each stop of Vodka Train has a Honcho who is a local who has signed up to oversee the groups time, making sure all the paperwork and tickets are sorted, and pointing us, or leading us, to where we want to go. It also meant that we were taken to local places to eat, which was more affordable, and meant we got to sample the local Russian foods that Lena usually has.

The next day we took a bus out of town, to Peterhof Palace, which is the summer palace. Taking in the gardens, the grand palace buildings, and then abundance of fountains, we also walked along the sea.

Back in the city, via the metro and marveling at the ornate and breathtakingly grand stations, we walked passed the The Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood, and then went aloft the Colonnade of St Isaac's Cathedral to get a view of the city. Back at ground level, we got to stare up at the Bronze Horseman.

6 of the 7 of us then got all dressed up and went to the ballet - Swan Lake in a very old Russian theatre. Quite a special feat, going to see this in Russia!

The boys feeling like that had had enough culture that evening, convinced us to have beers at the Irish pub across from the ballet, where we each had our first shots of vodka for the trip.

Having enjoyed 2 days of sunshine, and being told that St Petersburg only actually gets 24 days of sun a year, our last day was raining and overcast. Which was the perfect day to spend inside the Hermitage, taking in a vast collection of art, spanning from Russian, to a full scope of European art, Egyptian artifacts, to sculpture. We each spent hours meandering through the 5 buildings of the Winter Palace, of world art. So impressive!

Exploring the river side of the city, we walked over to Peter and Paul's Fortress, before Jess, Belinda and I took the river cruise through the canal and river systems, out in the elements taking in the commentary, before we each graduated inside for the last portion. It was freezing!

The end of the day, Lena managed to get us all to the train station in time to board our first train of our long journey, an overnight to Moscow.

Palm Cove and Kuranda

Over dinner at the Sheraton Mirage, we were offered the treat of coming over the next morning for the full buffet breakfast and a swim. Hard to say no to! This is how we spent our morning on Tuesday, before leaving Port Douglas. Sun blazing, and swimming in the lagoon of this resort. Not bad! Ha!

We eventually called an end to our bonus resort experience, and started our drive down south for our next accommodation destination. After talking through our plans, we decided to pop into the outskirts of Cairns this afternoon, to see the Royal Flying Doctors Service headquarters. Here we walked through the museum like history room, before going out the back to board one of their old planes for a peek inside.

Taking me back to my beloved memories of one of my favourite TV shows, the Visitors Centre then had one of the nurses talk about the service, and then show a video about the work they do. Amazing service, and we were amazed at the coverage and numbers of people who use this service in the remote areas of our country.

Driving into Palm Cove, we actually trawled the tiny town to see if we could book ourselves in for a spa treatment for the afternoon. Not having any luck, we found out hotel and checked into the Rockford Esplanade - only to find that they had a service that could come to our room. So we both had a massage, much needed!

Walking along the main beach road of resorts, we had dinner at El Greco, with a full array of Greek goodies...sitting alongside Kevin Sheedy! There is no escaping footy, is there! An early night, ready for our early start the next day.

This morning we were picked up from our hotel by the Down Under Tours bus, and driven to the Freshwater train station. Here we ate breakfast, and walked through the museum to read about the history of the railway and it's feat of engineering, being built by hand, before boarding the train.

The Kuranda Scenic Railway winds its way through the mountains and rainforest, past Barron Falls, up to the town of Kuranda. Being told about the area, the history, and all the sites to see out the window of the train by the Michael Catton voiceover, we reached Kuranda. Here we wandered through the markets, before having a light lunch of scones and jam and cream at the pub.

From here, we walked to the SkyRail, and boarded a gondola for the ride down the mountains. The little pods allowed you to jump off at two different spots to take in the ranges and rainforest around us, including the other side of Barron Falls.

Next to the end of the SkyRail, we entered the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park. We watched live actors and holograms enact the history of the Tjapukai people in the Creation theatre, after viewing art depicting these stories also. We then walked out to the grounds of the Park to watch a dance demonstration, with music, fire making...and even the chance to see American school kids called up to attempt to join in with the show.

From here we got to establish that Melissa could throw a boomerang and a spear...and that I throw like a girl! A lesson on bush medicines and an explanation of the challenges of Didgeridoo playing was next, before we were back to the main complex and the History Theatre, to hear the impact of white man's arrival to the area and to the Tjapukai people. They also told of the impact of having the above mentioned train track built through their sacred mountain ranges.

After such a full day, and again returning to our hotel as the weather started to cool, we talked ourselves into going for a dip in the hotel spa. We then moved to the hotel bar for Mojito and Pina Colada to mark the fact that I don't have DVT this year, one year on. Touch wood!! A massive curry for dinner, with wine, and we were exhausted and pissy enough to call it a night!

ANZAC Dawn Service and the TranzScenic

Whilst it was still very early, cold and dark on Saturday, Mum and I left the comfort of our hotel room, laden with our luggage, and got a taxi to the Cenotaph in Wellington, with the gathering crowd.

Standing in the dark, cold centre of town, we watched as the Returned Soliders, serving members, and their families, gathered to form the parade to the Cenotaph to begin the ANZAC Dawn Service. With a rifel fire into the air the service began, with prayer, welcome, a minute silence, and the ever haunting Last Post.

Meaning more and more to me, I aimed to be over here this year, after Melbourne two years ago, and Gallipoli 4 years ago. Jessie and Heath were at the Gallipoli service this year, as Mum and I were in Wellington.





As the Dawn light started to spill over the waterfront, Mum and I took our bags the two blocks to the Railway Station, and checked in to our TranzScenic Overlander journey up the North Island. Leaving the station at just after 7.30am, we settled into our comfy seats for our feast of spectacular scenary.

Through river gorges, past the national parks and volcanic plateau, and through the Raurimu Spiral. The lunch stop was at Ohakune, just after the sighting of Mount Ruapehu. Amazing trip, with the open air viewing deck, to the back carriage with a lounge for viewing from the glass windowed back of the train.

Arriving into Auckland, to the first proper miserable weather of our trip, we walked from the station, to our hotel, just at the foot of the iconic SkyTower.

Friday was our full day in Wellington, and we actually did what we had done the day before, but in reverse, and in daylight. We walked down Willis Street, stopping for brunch along the way, to find the Cable Car station. Mum and I rode to the top of the hill overseeing the town of Wellington.

Leaving Mum at the top, I wandered down into the Botanical Gardens, to find the Sundial, and the Peace Flame. Back down to sea level, we walked through the main street of town, before again walking along the Waterfront, and having Fish and Chips looking out over the habour.

Back to Te Papa for a proper walk through of the cultural musuem of New Zealand, we took in the art and history of the land. Learning much of the settlement of the land over the ditch, reading up on the Treaty Of Waitangi...makes me wonder why Australia is so far behind in recognising our indigenous culture. This treaty was signed in 1840! The Australian government's true acknowledgement has just happened in the last few years! Disgraceful!

A little Glaswegian

After finishing my book in the gardens at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, I released it at the Edinburgh International Book Festival after the Fringe show that afternoon. I then wandered around more of the New Town of Edinburgh, before boarding a train to Glasgow.

Just at that point where the sun goes down and the sky is that blue colour, I was raced through the Scottish countryside. Lush green hills, and at one point we passed a lake where we were at just the right angle for the sky blue colour to be reflected back like glass. One of those awesome train travel moments.

Arriving in Glasgow, I walked through the streets to check into the Victoria House Hotel for the night. After a full buffet breakfast the next morning, I walked through the pedestrian streets of central Glasgow.

Finding the Glasgow Cathedral by accident (I kinda lost my way there for a bit!), I then walked down to Glasgow Green and the People's Palace. The greenhouse style of the Winter Garden was quite warm after being caught in the rain outside, before walking through the history of Glasgow. (More photos)

A walk along the River Clyde, before lunch at the 13th Note, which is an OBCZ. More walking through this worker's town, before getting a bus out to the airport and my flight back to London.

Venice, fair Verona and gelati

Friday night after work, Laura, Charlotte and I haul-arsed out to the airport on the Stansted not-so-Express, for our much anticipated long Bank Holiday weekend in Venice. After our flight, we then bussed into the station on the mainland, and then bussed again out to our hotel.

Having booked quite close to the actual weekend, our hotel was out in the...interesting suburb of Spinea. Public bus trip in and out of town, it worked in that it was just a bed, with breakfast...but was a mission to get there!

In the morning of Saturday we headed to the cluser of islands that is Venice. Wandering through the tiny cobbled streets, and over the many, many bridges of the many canals, we reveled in being lost, and wandering aimlessly. This is the only way to soak Venice in! Away from the hordes of tourists, just walking through the little streets, where life is happening right there - washing strung out to dry, and people traveling by boat to everyday things.

Walking through the streets, we sampled gelati, chocolate and pastries, before arriving at the beautiful Piazza San Marco, with the Basilica and Doge's Palace. Drawing in the visual spectacular of the square over lunch, we walked through dodging pigeons and tourists. Walking out towards the Grand Canal, we were approached by a gondola driver for the wheeling and dealing.

Securing our price, the three of us jumped into our gondola, and were spirited through the canals, under the Bridge of Sighs, and past the former home of Marco Polo. Sitting at the side of the boat proved a little rocky for me, much to the amusement of the girls, and I needed to swap seats - after our placement had been specified for balance! Our driver gave a spiel as we went around, and answered questions, comically (not!!) rocked the boat, and even sang for us!


More gelati and a lounge in the sun in one of the many piazzas, after walking down to see the Rialto Bridge. Dinner of pasta and calamari ("tourist menu" with a sample of several dishes - very good!!), and several drinks later, we then made the trek back out to Spinea.

Coming back into the city the next morning, we walked to the other side of the Venice island cluster to catch a ferry out to the further islands. We disembarked on the island of Burano, an island famous for it's lace, but we were there to check out the pretty coloured buildings. Very cute, every house was painted with a different and bright colour, contrasting all the way down the street...er, canal. Lunch of pizza, and another serve of gelati, we stretched out of the few patches of grass we had seen all weekend, before the next ferry.

A short ride across the lagoon, and we arrived in Lido, another island around Venice itself. Hiring bikes, we rode for an hour covering a fair bit of the island (the first time I have riden a bike since I was a kid - a major conquest!! Hee hee!). We had been planning to visit the beaches, however the warm weather had started to drop off. Ferry back to Venice, we headed to Harry's Bar, after receiving recommendations from Niny as a 'must do'.

Sitting at our table, quite keen for a decent drinking session, we almost had a stoke when we saw the price of a Bellini! Champagne and peach juice, we actually ordered one of the tiny glasses and shared it between us!! All class!! And considering it tasted like Passion Pop, at 16 €uro, that was more class than we could afford!! Hee hee!

Drinks at an off-the-main-trail piazza, we then found a spot for dinner, and walked through San Marco's when it was all lit up. We then wandered back to the bus station through the labyrinth of the tiny cobbled streets.

Venice is so quite! No traffic, the absence of car traffic noise, honking and flow, was so apparent here. The only sounds were conversation, the lapping of the canals, and footsteps. So lovely.

Yesterday we got the intercity train across to Verona. A beautiful Italian town in the hills, Verona is the picturesque scenery you imagine. Walking through the main piazza with the Arena on one side, we headed through to Piazza delle Erbe, and the market there. Following the map, we found the Casa di Giulietta, which features the mythical balcony of Romeo and Juliet fame. Mystery surrounds whether this was actually the home of a family of the Capulet name, however this does not stop the droves from a visit and a wistful look up to where she may have stood... Not far away is the Tomba di Giulietta, where the star-crossed lovers are said to have ended their lives.

More gelati to keep to our daily quota, we then boarded the train back to Spinea, on which we got a private cabin. All very lovely, pulling out of Verona with the sun setting behind the rolling green hills.

Had a gorgeous weekend, one which even the drama of getting to the airport and arriving in rainy London for work could not dampen. (More photos.)