Dark Travels - Stories From Tony Wheeler

One of the other sessions of the Melbourne Writers Festival was both travel, and book related, and fed my travel bug big time!

The stand out session for me was a free one at the Wheeler Centre, to listen to Tony Wheeler talk about his travels to "Dark Lands" and his new book about the same. Tony Wheeler is the name behind the Wheeler Centre, but also, of course, the co-founder of Lonely Planet.

You can just imagine the travel stories he has collected over the years! And he shared so many of them, sitting on stage sipping red wine, telling story after story. Amazing!

He talked about the concept of “Dark Travel”, being  ‘misery travel’, which is in fact getting a bit of travel blogger focus and attention of late. Places like visiting Hiroshima and Dachau count within one angle of this idea, but what Tony is talking about is places like Pakistan, Iraq, Syria, the Congo and Colombia. He travelled to a bunch of these places for this new book, to have more current stories for it. And then revisited them again, also within the process.

Tony stated that ‘places with problems are always more interesting’. He talked about the opportunity to ‘marvel at the mess we make of things’, like Chernobyl, and how people and communities get through to the other side.

Tony claimed that the Congo was the darkest – and yet the biggest and most fascinating country to travel around. He talked about how it’s been a disaster area from the start, to today, and yet a ‘wonderful country to travel around’. Plus, so many great books have come out of it, from the Heart of Darkness to (one of my favourite reads) The Poisonwood Bible. He also added that he was told that a trip to the police station there was as much a part of the travel experience in the Congo, as speaking bad French in France is!

Tony claimed that North Korea, followed by Saudi Arabia were the “maddest” places to travel to. Colombia, he said, was the place that has most turned itself around between these visits for this book.

He told the full room that he in fact spent his first 5 years of life in Pakistan, and two of his siblings were born there. 'Great to have on your passport' he quipped! Tony says that Pakistan has all of the things that people travel to India for. Made me think of standing at the gates between India and Pakistan at the border, hoping that one day we could travel around there to watch an Australian cricket tour.....and experience this land I know so little about. One day.

Tony told stories about figuring out the process to get his visa to go to Somaliland, and claimed that such crazy and bizarre processes is 'what makes travel to these places so much more fun'! He also told of the usual markings of travelling to a Dark Lands is surely the fact that your flight arrives at the 'arid time of 3am'. Ahhh, there are a few of those places around the world, indeed!

He touched on the idea of female travellers to these places, in response to an audience question. Tony reminded the room that Western women in many of the places he had talked about find themselves in the unique position of being between the elevated status with men, just for being from the West, but then also being able to connect with the women of such a place. He said that this status can lead to such great experiences and insights!

An audience member asked about the selling of Lonely Planet, and he graciously explained some of the pitfalls of the initial sale, and the status now - and the fact that whilst they had a passion for guidebooks, they 'don't have the stomach for the internet', which is where such travel books are now.

Another question from the floor dealt with the notion that Lonely Planet has changed many places, by publishing recommendations. Like Bali. Tony agrees that they 'were one of the many influences that changed places like Bali', but also spoke of the need to work with the changes, and be happy for the people and communities when things have gone well for them, or have changed for the better. He also talked about an interest in going to such places to see what went wrong in the tourism boom, and whether there are ways for a community to work through such lessons for the better.

Stories and anecdote after another, it was such an enchanting session! Tony spoke of Iran as a place people should visit - where 'poets are revered' and where 'people sit around drinking tea and quoting poetry'. He also urged the Australian audience to visit places closer to home, like East Timor, which is 'a place that needs more tourists, to help their economy'.

What an inspiring man, writer, and traveller! 

The Charm Of Pondicherry

Even since being swept away with imagery when reading Life Of Pi, I have wanted to visit Pondicherry in India, where the story begins, and the inspiration for the zoo was found. The test match being scheduled for Chennai meant that a roadtrip was possible on our last day in the area, and after finding Mamallapuram and Auroville on the way down, Julie and I made it to the oceanside French Colonial town.

After a much needed lunch facing out over the sea at Le Cafe - and the treat of a Western French inspired meal as a break from Indian food - we checked out the Ghandi Statue, before having our driver take us to the Botanical Gardens.

Here is where Yann Martel's story started. This overgrown garden is meant to be where the idea of the zoo came from...and I almost expected Richard Parker to slink out of some of the jungle areas!

You can even see the little railway tracks that were mentioned in the book.

We then plotted out a wander through the French Quarter of Pondicherry, to take in the pretty buildings. The quaint sights of women in saris against the colourful background of the buildings, and the cobbled streets.

Some rundown buildings, some beautifully restored.

We started on the edge of Bharathi Park and walked past the Pondicherry Museum. North of Nehru Street we interacted with a group of women who were all coming out of the ashram, before we came back towards Government Square, and then down and Romain Rollard and Suffren Streets for more gorgeous building viewing.

As part of our discovery of this little town on foot, we happened upon the Sri Manakulu Vinayagar Hindu temple with an elephant out the front. For some rupees, the elephant dedicated to Ganesh would pat the head of the giver, which had us entertained for some time.

We were both so buoyed by our trip down to see Pondicherry, and this was one of my favourite days in India.

Giving The Magic Of Harry Potter

This week just gone Cooper and Charli turned six. So hard to believe  when we think back to those baby photos! 6!

They also started school a couple of weeks ago, into Prep. School uniforms, and school lunches, and the big wide world at their feet.

For Xmas I bought them the first two volumes of Harry Potter, with the idea of introducing them to the world of magic, sticking up for your friends, and trying to do the right things. I love these books for those lessons, and so much more.

I had left them the next 2 installments for this birthday, although surely they won't need them for a bit longer yet. Dean was assigned reader, so I will see how they are going when I get back!

Happy Birthday, C and C! I hope school is wonderful!

The Wizarding World of Harry Potter

Right from the moment you walk under the archway into Hogsmede, and the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, you are swept up in the magic of this Universal Islands of Adventure section. The snow-capped buildings of Hogsmede, with the familiar names of Honeydukes and Zonko’s, and Hog’s Head and the Three Broomsticks, is so pretty and well done, the feeling of excitement and magic is very hard to resist!

I had hurriedly finished the final book the morning of my visit, and even completed the book before it on the drive to the airport for this trip, which I would never usually do! Not wanting to catch any spoilers for the ending, I need not have worried, as clearly this land was planned mid-way through the Potter Hogwarts years.

Wandering into each of the snow-capped shops within Hogsmede, taking in the sweets and treats of Honeydukes, and checking out the Owl Post store with the owlery in the rafters above, was just like you had stepped into the books. There was a line-up at Ollivander’s Wand, as I believe you can go in and have a wand select you, but the line persisted all day so I gave that a miss.

With Hogwarts looming above, I decided to have a quick stop at the Hog’s Head and a glass of the infamous Butterbeer. Like a creamy soda, really, this Hogsmede staple sealed the experience.

Getting up to the castle, and storing my things in a locker, I then followed the path to the main ride of this "land". As a single rider I got to move through the barriers pretty quickly, as the walk through to the corridors of Hogwarts, with the moving and talking picture frames adorning the walls, past the Sorting Hat, up into the Great Hall with it’s gorgeous floating candles, and the seat for the ride.

Strapped in to the capsule and being set in motion, Hermione is the first character you encounter on Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey, explaining that you will travel through corridors of the castle and be met by Harry and Ron, to a Quiddich match. Harry and Ron take you flying from the Castle to outside, but then you cross paths with Hagrid who has lost a dragon, and sure enough, that dragon bumps your flying trip off path. You run into this dragon, feel the heat of his breath, before he causes much destruction within your path, making the walls crumble, and leading you to come face to face with Aragog. Eventually you make it safely to the Quidditch pitch - but soon dementors arrive, and Harry tries to take you away to find safety. You go into free fall, before Harry’s Patronus clears the path, and he brings you back safely to the Castle and the Great Hall.

The ride manages to capture quite a bit of the essence of the books, the characters and the setting, and lets you feel like you are there in enchantment of JK Rowlings' imaginings.

Back into the sunlight, after a visit to Filch's Emporium of Confiscated Goods, I jumped onto the Flight of the Hippogriff mini-roller coaster, which included a wizz past Hagrid’s Hut. I then wandered back into Hogsmede and had lunch at the Three Broomsticks, which included a glass of pumpkin juice, which was delicious!

Visiting the Wizarding World is the reason I travelled up to Orlando via my roadtrip, and the magic of the details bringing the books to life, such as the presence of Moaning Murtle in the bathroom, and the hanging Extendable Ears in Honeydukes, made it completely worth the effort. Seeing these characters and stories made into a physical place to enjoy was a delight, and is a real treat for any Harry Potter fan.

Seuss Landing

Stepping into Seuss Landing, after the initial Port of Entry of the Universal Island of Adventures in Orlando, is like walking into the colourful and quirky mind of Dr Seuss and right back to your childhood. The enchanting prose, and attention to detail from the range of amazing books depicted within this "land" I can only imagine how amazing it would be as a kid!

One of the first sights once you have walked under the colourful archway, is the restaurant called Green Eggs and Ham, complete with giant salt and pepper shakers out the front, and a big cartoon fork in the top.

A little further around this "land" is the Cat In The Hat ride, where you are strapped into a couch and taken through the story with the mischievous Thing 1 and Thing 2. So cute.

Back outside, I took in the kids and their parents enjoying the One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish, Blue Fish ride, and also the Caro-Seuss-el, both an abundance of colour and characters.

Along the walkway is The Street of the Lifted Lorax, and the Truffula Trees, and the shops in this area are also very cute. The store Dr Seuss's All The Books You Can Read really brings home that these are the books and prose that draw so many children into reading.

The High in the Sky Seuss Trolley Train ride is well into the "land", and takes you across much of the sights below, whilst telling the tale of the Lorax and the Sneetchers...which is not a story I am familiar with, but cute nonetheless! The track takes you through the Circus McGurkus Cafe Stoo-pendous, and over the rooftops of the land with loads of story details to spot.

This Universal visit really highlights the genius and joy of the Seuss books, and is a real tribute to the works of this great, enduring and engaging author.

Harry Potter: The Exhibition

Part of my amazing Sydney weekend was a visit to Harry Potter: The Exhibition at The Powerhouse Museum, and wander into the magic of the props of the movies that bought these books to the screen.

I had invited myself to this outing with Jess and little Evie, with Nan and Heather and her little one, but thanks to a cancelled flight up to Sydney the night before, I arrived at the Powerhouse as they had finished their visit. But nonetheless, I got to see Jess for a quick hi, and then wandered in under Mr Weasley's enchanted flying car in the foyer to the check out the exhibit.

Ushered in to the dark entryway, and held until there was a group, we were taken into the first room where a live announcer was pacing in costume to introduce what was ahead for us. Our witch also then asked for a volunteer, and one timid kiddie in the group got to sit under the Sorting Hat and be nominated into a Hogwarts House. Once this was demonstrated, and Gryffindor was the choice for the brave, a few more kids were happy to volunteer for such an activity!

The next room gave you a reminder through film-grabs of the journey of Harry and his mates at Hogwarts, plus all the amazing and the scary people he encounters through his schooling, before you reached the room with all the movie artifacts.

This is really well set up, as you walk through early school days at Hogwarts and Harry's school uniform, his and Ron's beds, and then a spattering of teachers and their signature items and outfits.

One of the most amazing parts of this experience for me was the comparison of the outfits Harry, Ron and Hermione wore in the first films, with the grown up sizes for the more recent chapters - we have certainly watched these 3 actors grow up from little school kids, to adults, through these movies!

You can pull up a screaming Mandrake in Herbology class, and throw a Quaffle in the Quiddich area. Plus, you get to walk into Hagrid's hut, complete with a quivering dragon egg on the table. But the little details from the books and movies are the special treats of this walk through the exhibit - takes you back to your vision from your first read!

There are boxes of Skivving Snackboxes, Ron's Howler from his Mum, the moving and animated picture frames along some of the walls, and Dobby is there, as well as pieces from Wizard Chess. The costumes of the Dementor and Voldemort's faces are pretty fear inducing, even still, so be warned! The Great Hall and the floating candles are there, but not as magical as that scene in the movie - my favourite part!

There is timed entry on each ticket, and runs for another month, with off-peak prices during the weekday making it more accessible. Plus, the last part of the exhibit was the merch shop where kids were getting wands and House scarves. Totally worth a visit if you are in Sydney, and a Harry Potter fan!

Old London Town

A seven hour flight from Bridgetown to London Gatwick had me back in my old home of a couple of years back now, albeit in a jetlagged state. The train from Gatwick into Victoria included a little shudder as it passed East Croydon, I arrived into Victoria with ease. Everything about arriving back to the UK was easy on Wednesday, with my old Oyster card for the tube working, limited crowds at that hour on transport, and my pre-existing knowledge of where to go, led me to meet Charlotte and rest out the morning at her flat in Notting Hill.

I headed across town to Camden to meet up with Charles for lunch at The Prince Albert, for a three course treat, before meeting Miss Charlotte and Alison at the flat once they had finished work, for dinner at Nyonya for old times sake. Laksa....mmmmmm!

Yesterday I met up with Renee in Fulham for lunch at The Chancery and a catch up with her and her Pommy accent in the sunny beer garden, before spending some quality shopping time in old favorites like Primark and then Oxford Street.

Last night I caught up with Chantal, Nat, Jess and Andrew, Dave, Charles, Charlotte and Alison for many many Pimms and Lemonade at The Champion, across the road from Hyde Park.

Today I have finally completed some classic London tourist sights which I did not visit when I lived here! I made my way into town and walked through Westminister Abbey, with the audio of Jeremy Irons taking me past the corination chair, the varios resting points of royals and literary names, and pointing out the grand and breathtaking ceilings in this majestic church.

I then met Jess for lunch at Pret, before we made our way to join a Yeoman Warder tour of the Tower of London. Having had my interest in Henry VIII spiked following the reading of The Other Bolyen Girl, I was keen to see the executioner's block and be taken through the times of treason, torture and scandal. Walking, and then travelling on the slow moving people mover, past the crown jewels, being each set of sparkly bits per monarch, Jess and I also took in the Torture Tower and Beauchamp Tower, with it's graffiti.

An attempt at visiting St Paul's Cathedral upper elements was thwarted by time, and thus, I may never see the much talking about whispering chamber! A Pimm's on the Queen Mary as another token of old times, my big trip is coming to an end - with just the task of packing and getting to the airport in the morning the last bits left!

Three Flights And Five Countries Later

An early start for me following the test match, Earl, the Waving the Flag bus driver for Antigua and board member of Antiguan cricket - plus adjudicator of the man of the match award - drove me out to the airport for my day of flying. After checking into my Liat flight, I wandered across the road to take in the lush green sight of the former Antigua cricket ground, and walk through The Sticky Wicket, the West Indies Hall of Fame.

Boarding my two hour flight to Santa Domingo, after one of the best breakfasts I had had for a long time in the Banana cafe in the airport, I started reading Che Guevara's Motorcycle Diaries, which gave me background on the iconic man, and also reinforce a lust for South America travel.

Arriving in the Dominican Republic, and gaining a new stamp in my passport for a three hour stay given my airline change, I chatted to my flirty and cute Customs offical who informed me that I didn't have enough time to go into the city and back. Shame....next time!

Another flight, and this time to Panana City. Flying into this Central American city after another 2 hour flight on Copa Airlines this time, I took in the view of the spread of buildings from just over the wing. A busy and bustling airport, and just enough time to walk from one end to the other to grab my flight to my destination, Havana, Cuba.

Getting into Havana after another 2 hour flight, it was late and dark. I managed to change money into the Cuban Peso Convertable, and then source a taxi into town. I followed the directions to our casa particular, which are private homes registered as accommodation options, only to find, through much language difficulties, that I wasn't staying there! Luckily the home owner walked me through the streets of Havana to Norma's casa particular, where I was staying.

Eventually I made it across town to meet up with Melissa, Jessica and Heath, who had been waiting for some time at Hotel National, our original meeting place. They had had time to sample many of the hotel's experiences, and were giggly and hot when I got there! A mojito to toast our week ahead, when made it back to Norma's.

Bookcrossing and Book Launch

On Tuesaday I attended my first offical Melbourne Meet Up for BookCrossing, since being away.

We met at The Brandon, in Carlton, for dinner and red wine, and the usual book swapping. It was great to catch up with Megan and Andrew, who I haven't seen since I have been home.

Last night, Michelle, Bronwyn and I went along to Shane Maloney's new book launch for Sucked In. Following Shane Maloney at the moment because he is the scheduled speaker for our Australian BookCrossing Convention this year, in Melbourne in October, we thought we could pop along and show some support, and start to learn about the books he writes.

We needn't have worried about the support aspect, as the Trade's Hall Paddy's Bar was packed with people for this event! We rubbed shoulders with media personalities, and politicians alike, soaking up the free drinks, and awaiting the launch.

Having not read his previous books, we were amused by the opening and official launch by in character (for the novels) Mick Malloy, before hearing a politicised and controversial, but very funny, introduction by the man himself. Surrounded by flags and slogans from Unionists, the atmosphere was jovial and much admired of this author.

Looking forward to hearing him speak for us in October, but I certainly need to read a volume or two of his work!

A BookCrossing Catch

Last week I heard back from my 35th BookCrossing catch! Very exciting to hear that someone has found a book you have released, and that they will read it and pass it along.

This book was released at the Eureka Stockade here in Ballarat last Wednesday, and was picked up by a local! The new member journaled it on the same day on which I released it, and says that they will read and release it again.

Most of my BookCrossing catch success has been while I have been traveling. I have had catches from releases in Adelaide, Darwin, Bangkok (which found it's way to Germany!), and Edinburgh.

My most impressive catch, however, was a book that I caught myself when I was in Phnom Penh. The book was registered and released by a BookCrosser from Laos, and I managed to track it down through the Go Hunting pages. I found it, journaled it, and then read it on my way to Tokyo. In Tokyo I released it in my ryokan...where it was found, journaled by someone from Venezuela, who says they left it in Peru! I wonder where it will show up next!

Heatwave and Hogwarts

How about this heat!!?? Apparently THIS is the heatwave the Brits have all been fretting about - and it's going to be all gone and finished with, and raining again on the weekend!! What the...!? No wonder the POMs are such whingers - the weather is all over the place!! Better soak up the high 20s before they go away again! Work on that tan!

I am out at another assignment now, for a week. I am up north somewhere, 3 hours on the train from London.

On Tuesday I meet Jenny at King's Cross St Pancras Station for coffee, to work out some arrangements for the house, and so that I could get my ticket to come out to work the next day.

Oh course, no visit to that station is complete without a little play with the luggage trolley running into the wall at Platform 9 and 3/4!!!! I mean, without visiting the platform that takes wizards to Hogwarts in Harry Potter!! How funny.

Feeling a little silly (well, I was), we each had a go to see if the magic would work and we would get to board the magical red train....

Thank god the Aussies have finally won a match over here in the cricket!! I mean, I will never doubt Ricky's ability to win the Ashes again, but these lead up games were starting to get embarrassing!!! I mean, I am happy for them to get all pumped up, for us to shatter them come August - but still!! That's better, boys!!

War

I have visited the Imperial War Museum today, and like all exhibits like it, it has done my head in.

Pulled in by the information about The Children's War exhibit, which shows aspects of WWII for children in Britian during The Blitz. The personal accounts, the artefacts. You can't help but be affected.

But upstairs there is a film about Crimes Against Humanity. A topic that always interests and upsets me, I left with that numb, hollow and all encompassing sadness. How? Why?

The experience has not been helped, or has perhaps been enhanced, by my current book, Fools Rush In. I am being inspired by this one actually. A tale of a lost and emotionally injured man finding himself in the mission to assist with the distribution of food and supplies, and human contact and hope, in Sarajevo in 1993. Amazing.

I would love to do that. Or at least feel like I was making some meaningful difference, somewhere.

I need to seek out some volunteer work.

A Night with Spacey and Monet!

After finishing up my assignment on Saturday, I headed back into London and to Nat's ultra cool and ultra modern apartment. (Thanks for letting me stay again!!) Always quite hyper when I finish work, we got ready for a very busy, cultural night out...

We met Caitlin and Jack for dinner, before all rushing off to see Kevin Spacey in The Philadelphia Story at The Old Vic. Mmmmm, Kevin Spacey!! He has such a presence on stage. The story is adapted from the Katherine Hepburn/Cary Grant film, and whilst dragged a bit for me in the middle, the final act was great! I really enjoyed it.

Once the play had finished, and final curtain call was over, the four of us jumped into a black cab to see the Turner Whistler Monet exhibition at the Tate Britian - for a late night session! With sunset one of my favourite images, these works of art captured so much of the light and atmosphere that makes dusk and dawn so magical. The depiction of light and it's interaction with fog and smog was captured here by these three artisits, who contributed to the development of Impressionism. Monet's Houses of Parliment: Effect of Sunlight in the Fog and Turner's pieces from the burning of the Houses of Parliment were mesmorising.

How's that for a culture packed evening!!

Yesterday Nat and I met Caitlin and Kimberley at the Columbia Road Flower Market for a wander. Later we headed to Battersea Park to met the boys and to soak up the sun (it's gorgeous over here at the moment - when the sun is out!) and wine. A pub meal and a few pints, and the weekend was over! I did manage to get a bit of colour though! All good!

Have a free day today, and then off to work again tomorrow. This next assignment is here in London, which sounds like lots of fun. Loads of free time during the day, and a busy social life to be part of! Doesn't sound like work at all!!

Before I dash off in search of a hairdresser, and a PC card, I have to mention the book I read while at work - The Time Traveler's Wife. It is so beautiful! Totally lived up to it's hype and much raved about status from others, this book just pulls you in and leads you along the love of the two characters, Henry and Clare. It's easily one of my favourite books now! Just wonderful.

Penn

How good is Sean Penn!!?? There is nothing sexier than a successful man!! God damn!!

Went off and saw The Interpreter yesterday in my break, and was quite impressed. Although, I may be bias, as my admiration for Penn has grown and grown in the last couple of years.

Have heard lots of recent discussion from a whole heap of people, male included, stating that Johnny Depp is the best looking man alive. But give me someone real like Sean Penn anyday! Edward Sissorhands will always be too plastic, too dainty...

Penn has that raw emotion bubbling at the surface of all the roles I have seen him in lately. He's brilliant. Tough, rugged. Totally devoted to his family. Very good.

Interesting politics in the movie. Obvious look at Mugabi. Still find it ironic that the UN is situated in the US, with discussions about who should front the International Criminal Court, as depicted in the film, and yet the US won't ratify the ICC - for obvious repercussions of probably half of every American who has worked for or served their own government.

I couldn't imagine Kidman working in the role as a worker for the UN. But I was wrong. The accent she puts on, although not perfect at times, made her character stand out from others our Nicole has done.

This is the first movie I have actually gone to see on my own. Am I finally growing up? Or just preparing myself for my impending spinsterdom....

Anyway, back to the magic of the corridors of Hogwarts. Am really enjoying reading HP5.

Back to life...

Still on a high from my two weeks in Ireland, I am thrown back into reality today by going straight back into a work assignment. I am in the same place as before, with the same client. I heard myself yesterday agree to be here for 3 weeks - right up to my next adventure!! I am only thinking about the money!

Will be drying out for the 3 weeks, that's for sure!! I could have drawn the outline of my liver this morning - so 3 weeks of work here will probably be best!! Suprisingly I haven't been having the hug-the-porcelaine hangovers I am used to, lately, which might mean I have finally grown out of them!! Wouldn't that be awesome!! (...um...I don't really believe this!)

I ended up dragging Charles and Michael, a new resident at 57B, for my final couple of pints before this work placement, last night. Of course, catching up on our respective trips was a must!

I read one of the best books I have read in a long time over my time away - A Million Little Pieces, by James Frey. Was brilliant! A true recount of a 23 year old who wakes up in a plane in a complete mess, not knowing where he was or where he is going. He is addicted to crack and all sorts of things, plus alcohol in hideous volumes, and he is being sent home to his parents after getting himself in some more trouble. They talk about getting into a Program, and thus, the book is about James' time in the Treatment Clinic trying to deal with his addictions. It's powerful, raw, and so real. Not for the faint-hearted. Brilliant.

So, still hyper from my time away - even after a days work!! Hee hee! Had such a brilliant time in Ireland! That should definately keep me going for the next week or so!